2.3 Coasts

Question 1

How are waves formed?

2.3 Coasts

Answer 1

• Wind blows over the sea
• Wind against water causes friction
• Surface water is pushed in direction of the wind

Question 2

Trough

2.3 Coasts

Answer 2

The lowest part of the wave

Question 3

Crest

2.3 Coasts

Answer 3

The highest part of a wave

Question 4

Wavelength

2.3 Coasts

Answer 4

The distance between two successive crests

Question 5

Wave height

2.3 Coasts

Answer 5

The vertical difference between the trough and crest

Question 6

Still water level

2.3 Coasts

Answer 6

The level the sea would be at if there was no wind and therefore no waves

Question 7

Swash

2.3 Coasts

Answer 7

Wave breaks and pushes sediment up the beach

Question 8

Backwash

2.3 Coasts

Answer 8

Wave recedes back down the natural slope of the beach, at right angles to the beach

Question 9

What is the shape of a wave’s orbit?

2.3 Coasts

Answer 9

Circular, but eliptical as it reaches the shore

Question 10

What does wave size depend on?

2.3 Coasts

Answer 10

• Fetch
• Wind Speed
• How long the wind blows

Question 11

What happens to a wave when it reaches the shore?

2.3 Coasts

Answer 11

The wave slows at the base, tilt forward, and break, before moving to the shore

Question 12

Constructive Waves

2.3 Coasts

Answer 12

Build up beaches, have a stronger swash than backwash

Question 13

Destructive Waves

2.3 Coasts

Answer 13

Erode beaches, backwash is stronger than the swash

Question 14

Fetch

2.3 Coasts

Answer 14

The distance a wave has travelled

Question 15

During what season are destructive waves most common?

2.3 Coasts

Answer 15

Winter

Question 16

During what season are constructive waves most common?

2.3 Coasts

Answer 16

Summer

Question 17

The 4 main processes of coastal erosion:

2.3 Coasts

Answer 17

• Abrasion
• Attrition
• Corrasion
• Hydraulic Action

Question 18

Corrasion

2.3 Coasts

Answer 18

When destructive waves pick up beach material and hurl it at the base of a cliff

Question 19

Abrasion

2.3 Coasts

Answer 19

Breaking waves erode the base of a cliff by rubbing sand and other sediment against it

Question 20

Attrition

2.3 Coasts

Answer 20

Waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break apart

Question 20

Hydraulic Action

2.3 Coasts

Answer 20

Where the force of moving water crashes against cliffs, compressing trapped air and breaking the rock apart

Question 21

Corrosion

2.3 Coasts

Answer 21

When rocks are dissolved in the sea water

Question 22

Formation of a wave-cut platform

2.3 Coasts

Answer 22

• Sea attacks base of cliff
• Wave-cut notch formed by erosion at base
• Cliff collapses
• Backwash transports fallen material, leaving behind a wave-cut platform