A

Question 1

Aliphatic

Answer 1

(indicating straight chain molecules found in fats and oils) notes are fatty, soap waxy odours e.g. Aliphatic Aldehydes and Alcohols (see below)

Question 2

Absolute

Answer 2

Absolutes are regarded as the strongest aromatic product from the starting material. Not strictly essential oils as they are obtained through extraction with volatile solvents such as hexane which dissolves the volatile oil components plus colour and waxes. The resultant concrete is a solid. The volatile oil is then extracted from the concrete using alcohol. Absolutes are usually darker coloured than essential oils as non-volatile colour is also extracted.

Question 3

Accord

Answer 3

An Accord is the perfumery equivalent of a Chord in music. A blend of 2 smells that produces a 3rd different and distinctive smell. An Accord may be a simple mixture as already suggested or may consist of many materials. It particularly applies to where each component material is in balance and harmony with each other material so that one no single component can be detected. An accord is usually a small part of a perfumes structure just as a Chord is music acts as a single note in a symphony

Question 4

Agrumen

Answer 4

Citrus

Question 5

Alcohol

Answer 5

The word used by itself usually refers to Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol the main solvent used to carry perfume for extraits, colognes. When in a chemical name refers to the chemical group R-OH.

Question 6

Aldehyde

Answer 6

The chemical group R-CHO. The word by itself usually refers to shorter (C6-C12) straight chain (aliphatic) aldehydes used in perfumery.

Question 7

Aldehydic

Answer 7

A perfumery term that indicates a smell displays the character of the shorter (C6-C12) straight chained (aliphatic) aldehydes. The characteristic smell is revealed in the Greek origin of the word (anointing oil). Aldehydes display a fatty note. Aldehydic perfumes include Chanel No.5, Rive Gauche (YSL) and many versions of Lux soap.

Question 8

Amber

Answer 8

A heavy, full bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note.

Question 9

Animal Products

Answer 9

See Ambergris, Castoreum, Civet and Musk in The Perfumer’s Workbook

Question 10

Animalic

Answer 10

Animalic notes may be best described as Faecal and unpleasant. However, experienced perfumers recognise that in extreme dilution or clever combination they often display a very pleasant note. Civet Absolute is very faecal at 100% but at 0.1% gives a Lily Of The Valley note. Good use of animalic notes gives a perfume a natural character.

Question 11

Anosmia

Answer 11

The inability to smell. Total anosmia can occur as the result of injury or illness but is relatively rare. Partial Anosmia is a common phenomenon where people have selective insensitivity or blindness to particular materials smells or groups of smells. e.g. Benzyl Salicylate and Macro cyclic Musks are common examples. Some people on first exposure to a new material may claim not to be able to smell it but after several exposures their ability to smell it improves. e.g. Lyral. see “Induced Temporary Selective Anosmia”

Question 12

Apocrine Sweat Glands

Answer 12

Type of sweat gland which contributes to the sexual and body scent in humans and which the excretions from which can influence the odour characteristics of an applied perfume.

Question 13

Aroma Chemicals

Answer 13

Chemicals that have a smell and/or taste and are used in perfumes or flavours. Should note be confused with the term Aromatic Chemicals that refers to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds.

Question 14

Aromachology

Answer 14

The science, coined by the Olfactory Research Fund, dedicated to the study of the interrelationship between psychology and aroma.

Question 15

Aromatic

Answer 15

Strictly speaking refers to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds. However the term in perfumery refers to the rich aroma displayed by Balsamic notes.

Question 16

Aromachology

Answer 16

The science, coined by the Olfactory Research Fund, dedicated to the study of the interrelationship between psychology and aroma.

Question 17

Aromatherapy

Answer 17

Therapy with aroma. The art and science of using essential oils (although in theory any aromatic substance could be used) to heal common ailments and complaints. Can particularly helpful with stress or emotionally trigger problems such as insomnia and headaches. There is little clinical data to back up its efficacy in serious medical problems. The term was actually coined by a French chemist, R.M. Gattefosse.

Question 18

Attar (Otto)

Answer 18

From the ancient Persian word “to smell sweet.” Attar or otto refers to essential oil obtained by distillation and, in particular, that of the Bulgarian rose, an extremely precious perfumery material.

Question 19

Axon

Answer 19

Part of a nerve cell that conducts impulses away from the cell.

Question 20

Ayurvedic

Answer 20

The ancient Hindu art of medicine and of prolonging life.

Question 21

Azeotropic

Answer 21

An azeotrope or a constant heating point mixture is a mixture of two or more components in fluidic states whose proportions cannot be altered or changed by simple distillation. This happens because when an azeotrope is boiled, the vapour has the same proportions of constituents as the unboiled mixture.

Question 22

Aromatic Effect

Answer 22

Given by a combination of natural and synthetic products with a dominant camphor content.

Question 23

Aroma

Answer 23

A sensation which is between smell and taste

Question 24

Aquatics

Answer 24

A scent reminiscent of water but not overtly or heavily marine/oceanic.

Question 25

Aphrodisiac Scents

Answer 25

Scents reputed to make a person sexually attractive to another person.

Question 26

Aoud

Answer 26

Arabic word for wood in perfume, usually refers to wood from agar trees. Oud or agar is the resin extracted from agarwood which is the infected heartwood of aquilaria trees.

Question 27

Anise

Answer 27

a fragrance note derived from the seeds of the anise plant. It has a distinctively sweet, licorice-like aroma. Anise is often used in perfumery to add a warm, spicy, and slightly herbal character to fragrances.

Question 28

Ancillary

Answer 28

An ancillary is a body lotion, shower gel, aftershave or deodorant (basically any kind of body product) that contain a perfume concentration (normally 2%) used inside their matching Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette. They can intensify your signature fragrance, or create a custom scent when mixed with another a perfume from a different line.

Question 29

Amyris

Answer 29

a fragrant wood derived from the Amyris tree. Amyris essential oil has a soft, woody, and slightly sweet scent, often compared to sandalwood. It is used as a base note in perfumery to add depth and smoothness to fragrances.

Question 30

Ambroxan/Ambroxide

Answer 30

Ambroxide, widely known by the brand name Ambroxan is a naturally-occurring terpenoid and one of the key constituents responsible for the odour of Ambergris

Question 31

Ambrette

Answer 31

Ambrette, also known as musk mallow, is a plant that produces seeds with a musky aroma. Ambrette seed oil is used in perfumery as a natural substitute for animal-derived musk. It adds a warm, musky, and slightly floral note to fragrances.

Question 32

Ambergris

Answer 32

A biologic substance expelled from the digestive tract of the sperm whale. Upon aging on the open water, exposed to sun and salt, it develops a unique warm, balsamic odor. It is highly prized for this odor and its fixative properties, but is rarely used.

Question 33

Amber

Answer 33

a warm, resinous, and often slightly sweet fragrance note commonly used in perfumery. It can be derived from natural sources like ambergris or labdanum, or created synthetically. Amber adds depth, richness, and a sense of warmth to a fragrance.

Question 34

Allergen

Answer 34

a substance that causes an allergic reaction.

Question 35

Alembic

Answer 35

Equipment necessary for the extraction of essential oils. An alchemical still consisting of two vessels connected by a tube used for the distillation of liquids. The liquid in the cucurbit is heated or boiled; the vapor rises into the anbik, where it cools by contact with the walls and condenses, running down the spout into the receiver.

Question 36

Alcohol Used In Arabian Perfumery

Answer 36

Denatured alcohol which has additives of mentholated spirits, rendering the alcohol undrinkable. Denatured alcohol has a particular smell which lasts for a few minutes after spraying.

Question 37

Alcohol In Perfume

Answer 37

Denatured ethyl alcohol added to fragrance compound as a carrier. May not have the additives used in Arabian perfumery, may contain vodka, perfumer's alcohol and perhaps

Question 38

Agarwood

Answer 38

Made from the resin of the Aquilaria tree, which it emits when it’s attacked by pathogens, oud has an animalic, earthy, woody, tobacco, sometimes camphory quality that is complex and dark. Most scents featuring oud use a synthetic version, because the real stuff is understandably expensive to harvest.

Question 39

Aftershave Splash

Answer 39

An aftershave splash typically has about 3% fragrance concentration and is used for soothing skin and tighten pores thanks to its high alcohol content.

Question 40

Acqua Profumata

Answer 40

Scented water

Question 41

Acidic

Answer 41

In chemistry, something that's acidic has a low pH, as opposed to a base, which has a higher pH. However, in perfume it could be used to just mean sour smelling

Question 42

Absinthe

Answer 42

a fragrance note that is inspired by the alcoholic beverage of the same name. It typically has a bitter, herbal, and anise-like aroma, often associated with wormwood and other botanical ingredients.