Bleach

Question 1

2 types of bleach

Answer 1

Cream bleach

Powder lightener

Question 2

Cream Bleach

Answer 2

• A mild form of lightener, which is more gentle on the scalp
• Has a creamy consistency as is has added conditioning properties
• Activators can be added and this will boost their lightening strength
• Cream bleach won’t run or drip because of its consistency
• Can be used on scalp

Question 3

Powder bleach

Answer 3

• Generally stronger then cream bleach
• Can be mixed with a higher strength of hydrogen peroxide to give maximum lift off scalp
• Can be mixed with a lower strength hydrogen peroxide for on scalp lightening

Question 4

What does bleach do to the hair chemically?

Answer 4

-Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidising agent
Main chemical is ammonia hydroxide

-Bleach powder is an alkaline substance.
Main chemical is sodium acetate/ammonium carbonate.

-When the two are mixed together oxygen is released from the hydrogen peroxide which reacts with the colour pigments making them lighter.

Question 5

What does bleach do to the hair physically?

Answer 5

Because bleach products are alkaline when they are mixed with hydrogen peroxide this will soften open and swell the cuticle allowing the bleach to enter the cortex

Question 6

Visual effect

What are the seven stages of lightening?

Answer 6

• Black
• Brown/red
• Red
• Red/orange
• Orange/gold
• Gold/yellow
• Yellow/lemon

Question 7

Removing artificial colour

Answer 7

• Bleach and hydrogen peroxide (Oxidation) will lighten artificial colour with uneven results
• A colour redactor (reduction) will only remove artificial colour, leaving a more even result
• it will swell and open the cuticle
• reduce/remove the colour molecules

Question 8

Manufacturer instructions

Answer 8

Always read manufacturers instructions as they can vary slightly from company to company and also from product to product.

Question 9

full virgin head application

straight through application technique

Answer 9

• First read manufacturers instructions
• Start where the hair is the darkest (usually the nape) 0.5 cm sections
• Apply straight through from roots to ends
• Apply generously to both sides of the mesh and work into sections with the fingers
• Place the sections against each other - DO NOT PACK DOWN
• Continue with each section moving towards the front until all four quarters are covered
• Check the hair
• When any area first gets to the desired target level remove the bleach
• Shampoo powder lightener from the hair
• Dry the hair
• Reapply powder lightener to the other areas which have not reached the desired level of lightness
• When all the hair has reached the desired level, wash product out of the hair, shampoo, rinse
• Apply conditioner or antioxidant

Question 10

Heat band application technique

Answer 10

• First read manufacturers instructions
• Start where the hair is the darkest (usually the nape) 0.5 cm sections - 2 cm away from the scalp
• Apply to mid-lengths and ends (depending on porosity of the hair).
• Apply generously to both sides of the mesh and work into sections with the fingers
• Place sections against each other - DO NOT PACK DOWN
• Continue with each section moving towards the front until all four quarters are covered
• Check
• When the hair starts to lighten (10-15 minutes) start applying mixture to the roots quickly but carefully
• Leave 10 minutes - strand test - 10 minutes etc.
• When the hair has reached the desired level, wash product out of the hair, shampoo, rinse then shampoo again
• Apply conditioner or anti-oxidant

Question 11

Watch the heat band

Answer 11

• We have a heat band over the first 2 cm of the hair from the scalp.
• The hair in this area (the heat band) will speed up the processing time of the product

Question 12

Overlapping retouch

Answer 12

-This causes a line of demarcation

Question 13

Strand test

Answer 13

• Wipe a small strand of hair with cotton wool or tissue and check the colour
• Remember to reapply bleach to the strand test if it is not fully developed
• It is a good idea to remove the product off the hair at the scalp with the end of your tint brush/tail comb to enable you to have a good look at the root hair.

Question 14

How can we protect ourselves and our clients?

Answer 14

-Read the manufacturers instructions for the product we are using
-Have a good understanding of the effects of the products you could choose to use
-Select products wisely that will give the best result
-Do a thorough client consultation and hair and scalp analysis
Colourists to wear gloves at all times when working with chemicals
-If in doubt of the final result do a pre-strand test using the products you plan to use and check the result.

Question 15

What are the precautions when applying powder lightener?

Answer 15

• Never pack the hair down
• Always remember to reapply to tested area
• Do not comb through
• Keep your partings small
• Ensure a fast application, but thorough
• Always consider the hairs porosity

Question 16

Precautions when partial head powder lightener

Answer 16

• Ensure to take clean sections
• Use a barrier cream on the hair not to be lightened
• Use extra clips, glad wrap to remove extra hair from the area to be bleached
• Protective material to cover hair and skin

Question 17

When highlighting hair using bleach

Answer 17

• Mixing ratio: follow your Manufacturers Instructions, a good consistency is needed so product is not runny, this could cause bleach to bleed
• Do not foils to tightly as this can cause the bleach to bleed onto roots and push the product off the hair in the foil creases
• Ensure a quick but thorough application and bleach works quickly
• Consider the strength of developer chosen for the amount of lift needed
• Ensure close enough to the scalp so as not to cause an instant regrowth

Question 18

What is the purpose of a toner

Answer 18

• To change the reflect/tone of the hair after a bleach service
• There are varied colour choices
• Warm, cool, neutral
• Remember when toning an allergy test must be given 24-48 hours before colouring depending on MI’s
• The toner should be chosen before the bleach service as to the clients wishes and to achieve the outcome the client would like.

Question 19

Consideration when choosing a toner

Answer 19

• The hairs porosity
• What level do you need to bleach to achieve the target reflect/tone
• What reflect does the client want
• If in doubt it is advised to performa pre-strand test

Question 20

What toners can be used?

Answer 20

• Temporary toner—lasts 1-2 shampoos
• Semi-permanent toner—Lasts 8-15 shampoos
• Permanent toner—Grows out, may also fade
• Midway toner—Lasts 15-40 shampoos

Question 21

Toner application

Answer 21

• First read the MI’s
• Toner can be applied to either damp or dry hair, ensure you follow MI’s (Hair to be thoroughly towel dried)
• Consider carefully the whole of the hair strands porosity
• If porosity is even, then the toner is applied straight through roots to ends
• If the ends are porous then a porosity filler should be applied first then onto the porous ends
• Adjust the timing to give sn even result
• Mulch through at completion of the application ensure even distribution

-Strand test regularly to check the result. Timing may vary from 5-30 minutes

Question 22

What are the 3 stages the hair will go through before application of a blonde toner?

Answer 22

GOLD

YELLOW

LEMON (almost white)

Question 23

How can a toner be removed from the hair?

Answer 23

• To the MI’s
• Could be rinsed
• Rinsed and conditioned
• Shampooed and conditioned