What are thickeners and why we use them in products?
Adjust the viscosity of formulation, use to enhance texture/consistency and stability
What are the 5 categories of Peptides?
- Signal peptides
- Carrier peptides
- Neurotransmitter peptides
- Enzyme inhibiting peptides
- Antioxidant peptides
Mechanism of Signal Peptides?
- Role: Delivers proteins to their site of action
- Triggers signal cascade (chemical reaction) within extracellular matrix = increase stimulation of collagen, elastin and fibronectin production
- Skin benefits: Improve lines lines and wrinkles
Mechanism of Carrier Peptides?
- Transport substances and trace element to specific target areas of the skin, enhancing delivery of actives deeper into skin
- Skin benefits: Wound healing, increase skin density and fine lines
Mechanism of Neurotransmitter Peptides?
- Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides: Inhibit release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular junction
Mechanism of Enzyme Inhibiting Peptides?
- Inhibits enzyme activity: inhibits MMP (matrix metalloproteinases) active in aged skin
- Skin benefits: minimise wrinkles, crows feet and frown lines
Mechanism of Antioxidant Peptides?
- Inhibits lipid oxidation by stabilising radicals and neutralising non-radical oxidising species
- Skin benefits: Protect skin from free radicals and environmental stress
What ingredient is Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 [KTTKS (lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine) Matrixyl and what type?
- Signal peptide
- Stimulate production of extracellular proteins like collagen and fibronectin = improve lines around eyes
What ingredient is Pentapeptide-3 [Vialox®] and what type?
- Neurotransmitter peptide
- Blocks sodium ion release receptors which leads to muscle contractions, = smooth expression lines
What ingredient is Glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine (GHK) peptide and what type?
- Carrier peptide
- increase collagen production via fibroblast stimulation
What ingredient is Soybean Peptides and what type?
- Enzyme inhibiting peptide
- Reduce UVB induced photodamage
What ingredient is glutamyl-cysteyl-glycine and what type?
- Antioxidant peptide
- Stabilise radical species
who should use peptides?
- Chronological and photoaging
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Collagen deficiency
- Rosacea
- Hyperpigmentation
- Dehydrated and dry skin
What can Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) be divided into?
- UVA (320-400nm)
- UVB (290-320nm)
- UVC (100-290nm)
- EUV (Extreme Ultraviolet/10-100nm)
What is sunscreen’s goals?
- Prevent sunburn
- Protect skin from photodamage by preventing transmission of UVR into skin viable tissue
What are the two types of sunscreens?
- Organic filters (chemical) <- common
- Inorganic filters (mineral/physical) <-titanium dioxide and zinc oxide
How do sunscreens work?
- Scattering
Or - Absorb UVR energy and releasing it less harmful energy that wont damage DNA
Which UV mainly cause sunburn?
UVB
% of how much SPF 15, SPF 30, and SPF 50+ blocks UVB?
- SPF 15: 93%
- SPF 30: 96%
- SPF 50+: 98%
Inorganic (physical/mineral) mechanism of action?
Create physical barrier, reflection, scatter UV radiation and absorption of UVR
Organic (chemical) sunscreen mechanism of action?
Absorption of UV radiation, conversion to heat, releases in unharmful wavelengths energy
What ingredients are these?
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
ZINC OXIDE
Inorganic (physical/mineral) sunscreen
What are these ingredients?
- BEMOTRIZINOLE - aka TINOSORB S OR ESCALOL S
- METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL
- TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (aka TINOSORB M OR BISOCTRIZOLE)
- OCTYL METHOXYCINNIMATE (aka OCTINOXATE)
- OCTOCRYLENE
Organic (chemical) sunscreen
What are these ingredients?
- HOMOSALATE
- ECAMSULE - aka MEXORYL SX
- 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR (4-MBC).
- OCTISALATE
- BENZOPHENONES – AVOBENZONE, OXYBENZONE AND DIOXYBENZONE–
Organic (chemical) sunscreen
