Chapter 10-Waves Flashcards

Question

Describe the motion of water particles near the bottom in shallow water

Answer 1

becomes a back-and-forth motion

Answer 2

Wind waves carry only energy, and energy has no mass, and is therefore not subject to Coriolis deflection.

Answer 3

have the longest wavelengths

Answer 4

the wave height increases

Answer 5

less than 3 meters

Answer 6

When several wave crests or troughs coincide; results in larger waves

Answer 7

When the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave; results in smaller waves

Answer 8

wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves.

Answer 9

the water depth is about four-thirds the wave height

Answer 10

the wave will plunge

Answer 11

The process of refraction

Answer 12

wave reflection

Answer 13

its wave height increases and wavelength decreases

Answer 14

water depth = wavelength/20

Answer 15

the wave height is increased by entry into shallow water

Answer 16

Lowest layer containing most of Earth's atmosphere (_75-80%_). *_Tropopause_ (boundary btwn trosophere and stratosphere) is usually at _~10km_ - the jet stream is just below this.* The **_height_** of the top of the troposphere **_varies with latitude**_ (it is lowest over the poles and highest at the equator), _**with season_** (it is lower in winter and higher in summer), and time of day. It can be as high as 20 km near the equator, and as low as 7 km over the poles in winter. Almost all weather occurs within this layer [nearly all of the water vapor and dust particles in the atmosphere are in the troposphere. That is why mostclouds are found in this lowest layer, too]. It is warmed from below (sunlight warms the ground or ocean, which in turn radiates the heat into the air right above it); air is warmest at the bottom of the troposphere near ground level, and temperature decreases with altitude (higher up it gets colder). Air pressure and density also decrease with altitude. The troposphere is heated from below. Sunlight warms the ground or ocean, which in turn radiates the heat into the air right above it. This warm air tends to rise. That keeps the air in the troposphere "stirred up". The top of the troposphere is quite cold. The temperature there is around -55° C

Answer 17

~10 km above sea level (varies with latitude, season, and whether it's day or night; can be as high as 20km over the equator, and as low as 7 km over the poles in winter)

Answer 18

Deep convection (thunderstorms) in the ITCZ (low pressure), or over mid-latitude continents in summer, continuously push the tropopause upwards and as such deepen the troposphere. {This is because thunderstorms mix the tropospheric air at a moist adiabatic lapse rate. In the upper troposphere, this lapse rate is essentially the same as the dry adiabatic rate of 10K/km.} *A deepening by 1 km reduces the tropopause temperature by 10K*. Therefore, in areas where (or at times when) the tropopause is exceptionally high, the tropopause temperature is also very low, sometimes below -80C. Such low temperatures are not found anywhere else in the Earth's atmosphere, at any level, except in the winter stratosphere over Antarctica. On the other hand, colder regions have a lower tropopause, obviously because convective overturning is limited there, due to the negative radiation balance at the surface. In fact, convection is very rare in polar regions; most of the tropospheric mixing at middle and high latitudes is forced by frontal systems in which uplift is forced rather than spontaneous (convective). This explains the paradox that tropopause temperatures are lowest where the surface temperatures are highest. The tropopause height does not gradually drop from low to high latitudes. Rather, it drops rapidly in the area of the subtropical and polar front jets (areas of

Answer 19

* Also called seiches * Do not progress (they are progressive waves reflected back on themselves) and appear as alternating troughs and crests at a fixed position called antinodes, oscillating about a fixed point called node. * They occur in ocean basins, enclosed bays and seas, harbors and in estuaries.

Answer 20

* **Short heights**, **long wavelengths (\>100 km), and long periods** * Progressive waves * In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically

Answer 21

Changes in depth refract waves: waves approaching shore are refracted (bent) as they move from deep to shallow water - change in wavelength and wave speed

Answer 22

when wave is passing through gaps: spread of wave energy sideways to the direction of wave travel.

Answer 23

Continents reflect waves: Waves that encounter a solid vertical surface (such as a seawall) will abruptly change direction without much loss of energy. Though not as simple as a ball bouncing off a wall, the reflection of a wave obeys the same principles, where the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection. When the angle is zero (as measured from a line perpendicular to the reflecting surface), reflection may generate standing waves.

Answer 24

Periodic, short-term changes in height of ocean's surface 20,000 km (1/2 of Earth's circumference [40,000km]): longest of all waves! Huge, shallow-water, progressive wave Forced waves

Answer 25

MTL - computed from measurements taken at a place over many years and averaging all water levels. tidal range – difference between MHW and MLW (water level at high tide and water level at low tide)

Answer 26

Flood tide: tide wave is propagating (onto shore) onshore – water level is rising High Tide: water level reaches highest point \*\* Bulges \*\* Ebb Tide: tide is moving out to sea – water level is dropping Low Tide: water level reaches lowest point \*\* Troughs \*\* Slack tide: period when tide wave is reversing–low current velocity

Chapter 10-Waves Flashcards

(53 cards)