COASTS: Waves

Question 1

Energy reduction may occur as a result of..? (5 things)

Answer 1

1. Interference e.g. River entering sea at estuary (flooded area of sea/river)
2. Change in tide - in/out
3. Human-made structures e.g. groynes, rock armour
4. Natural obstacles e.g. Rocks, cliffs
5. Changing sea bed - wave breaking on bed

Question 2

What is flocculation?

Answer 2

When suspended clay particles (in rivers) come into contact with salt particles (in the sea) causing clay to stick together.
Settle in sheltered areas leading to salt marshes if enough material builds up.

Question 3

How are waves formed?

Answer 3

Waves at the beach are caused by wind blowing over the surface of the water out at sea.
As wind moves over the sea, it ‘grips’ the surface and pulls so the surface ‘wrinkles’.
Energy is transferred from wind to water.

Question 4

What does the size of a wave depend on? (3 things)

Answer 4

1. Velocity of wind
2. Length of time the wind’s been blowing
3. Fetch - sea distance which wind blows across

Question 5

What’s a fetch?

Answer 5

Sea distance which wind blows across.

Question 6

When do waves deposit their load?

Answer 6

When energy is reduced.