How do you check what the natural depth of the hair?
- Avoid the natural parting
- Take a profile parting, from centre forehead to centre nape
-Hold the hair flat to the head, cover any old colour with palms of hands to see true natural depth
Then look to see if hair is black, brown or blonde
Name the 8 different 8 hair tones
0 - Natural 1 Blue Ash 2 Mauve 3 Gold 4 Copper 5 Mahogany 6 Red 7 Metallic 8 Mocha
Name the three primary colours and the three secondary colours.
Primary - Red, Blue, Yellow
Secondary - Green, Purple, Orange
What brand is used at Toni and Guy for semi Permanent Colour?
Loreal Chormative
How long does semi permanent dye last? What percentage white hair does it blend?
Semi Permanent dye lasts up to 10 Shampoos and blends 30 % white hair. It does not lighten the hair but merely tones or darkens it.
What are the 7 steps for using Semi Permanent colour?
- Consultation
- Shampoo the hair with non - barrier forming shampoo
(Label M gentle cleansing or Deep cleansing) - Towel Dry the hair
- Profile and radial parting
- No Mixing, pour into a bowl and with a brush apply as a tint (if white hair is present then apply first to the location of white hair)
- Apply colour with tinting method of application
7 Develop
What is the development time for Semi permanent dye?
Natural hair - 15.30 minutes
Colour Hair - 5-15 Minutes
What products are used at Toni and Guy for Quasi Permanent colour?
Loreal Dialight
Loreal Dia Richesse
What are the qualities of Loreal Dia light?
- No coverage of white hair
- Ideal for already coloured hair and mainly used as a toner
- No level of lift
- Can only darken and change tone
- Ammonia free colour
- Acid based for balancing the hair’s PH state.
What are the qualities of Loreal Dia richesse?
- It provides 70% coverage of white hair (when mixed with half natural base + half shade required + 15 Vol)
- Can be used on natural and coloured hair
- 1.5 levels of lift (when mixed with 15 vol)
- Can light (slightly), dark and change tone
- Ammonia free colour
- Alkaline base for intense natural finishes.
What are the steps for using Quasi permanent colours?
- Mix 1 tube (50mls) of Dia richesse or Dia light colour with 75 Mls of 6,9 or 15vol Dia activateur (dialight 6 or 9 vol)
i. e you mix with a ratio of 1:1.5
What are the development times for Quasi Permanent colour
Global application: 20 minutes
Toning:5-10 Minutes
Rinse, Shampoo and condition
Which Dia Activateur do you use for each type of hair?
6 Vol - use with both light and richesse. For Porous and sensitised hair
9 Vol - use with both richesse and light. For normal to slightly porous hair. Used with richesse, can cover up to 30% of hair.
15 Vol - Use with Dia Richesse. To lift 1.5 levels. To blend 70% white hair. For intense vibrant shades.(Coppers and reds)
What product does Toni and Guy use for permanent colour?
Loreal Majirel
What types of Loreal Majirel are there?
Majirel
Majirel Mix
Majirouge
Majirel High lift
What are the steps to applying permanent colour?
Mix 1 tube (50 mls) majirel/majirouge shade with 75 ml 20vol/30 vol.
ratio 1 : 1.5
What are the development times for permanent colour - majirel?
35 minutes
When do you use 6% or 20 vol Lightener in permanent colour?
- To make it 2 levels lighter
- Darkens the hair
- stay on the same depth
Changes tone - covers white hair
- To be used with majirel/majirouge/prelightener
When do you use 9% or 30 Vol Lightener in permanent colour?
- 3 levels of lift
- To Be used with majirel, majirouge and high lift/pre lightener
When do you use 12% or 40 Vol Lightener in permanent colour?
- 4-5 levels of lift
to be used with high lift only.
How do you use permanent colour to cover up white hair
Majirel will cover up 50% of white hair when a fashion shade is mixed on its own
One tube of TS - 75ml 20 vol = 100% coverage
HOWEVER if the client has more than 50% white hair
For a cool target shade, mix… 1/2 TS = 1/2 corresponding base + 75 ml 20 vol
For a warm target shade, mix … 1/2 TS +1/2 corresponding golden base + 75 ml 20 vol
Due to technology inside DM5, Carmilane and Rubilane shades these colours will cover 100% white hair on their own when mixed with 20 vol.
What are the rules when using Majirel to darken hair?
When going darker using majirel, we use 20 vol. however 20 vol will always lift the undercoat 2 levels lighter. Therefore we must add there corresponding base in order to bring the undercoat back to the correct depth that we want to achieve.
1-2 levels darker = 1/4 tube of base or golden base + 3/4 of shade required.
3 or more levels darker = 1/2 tube of base or golden base + 1/2 shade required.
What forms the pigment inside the hair’s cortex?
Eumelanin and pheomelanin
What does hydrogen peroxide do to the eumelanin and the pheomelanin granules inside the cortex?
IT forms the colourless oxymelanin
