Beaches
Sand, pebbles & cobble SOURCES:
Beaches are DYNAMIC
Profile changes over time as wind strength and wave energy changes
EQUILIBRIUM PROFILE ~ balance between erosion and deposition
DESTRUCTIVE WAVES ~
CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES ~
Sand Beaches
COMPACT when wet ~ little percolation during backwash
LESS FRICTION ~ no absorption of energy
STRONGER BACKWASH ~ material carried back down beach rather than deposited
Shingle Beaches
RAPID PERCOLATION:
Swash aligned beaches
CLOSED SYSTEM ~ no net movement of sediment out of the system.
Drift aligned beaches
OPEN SYSTEM ~ material is moved to other systems.
Berms
Cusps
Runnels / Ripples
Tombolo
CONTROVERSY over the exact formation:
- some formed by drift aligned features
- others through sea level rise
PREVAILING WINDS ~ determine direction and power of waves that would create conditions suitable
for deposition
WAVE REFRACTION ~ around an off-shore island causing a wave-energy shadow where increased deposition occurs on the landward side
LONGSHORE DRIFT ~ caused by waves
causing movement of sediment through energy absorbed by winds
SPIT ~ starts to form growing seawards until they reach and adjoin an offshore island
CHESIL BEACH, DORSET:
- a tombolo formed in a more complex manner
- Most likely the beach developed as a barrier island and moved
onshore during the Flandrian Transgression as sea levels rose, enabling waves to move
material onshore
Spits
LONGSHORE DRIFT:
- occurs in one dominant direction
- carries sand & shingle to end of beach
- coastline changes direction
- material carried out into open water
STORMY CONDITIONS ~ larger material make feature more substantial & permanent
WAVE REFRACTION ~ end of spit becomes recurved
SILT & MUD ~ deposited in sheltered area behind spit
COLONISATION ~ salt-tolerant vegetation, leads to formation of saltmarsh
Bars
Saltmarshes
DESPOSITION:
- Fine materials, e.g silt and clay
- rivers lose energy as enter sea
- flocculation of clay particles ~ become larger & heavier
SALT-TOLERANT PLANT SPECIES:
- trap sediment
- e.g eelgrass
- help increase height of marsh
LOW MARSH:
- seaward sie
- high salinity
- turbid water
- long periods of submergence
- poor species diversity
Structures that are found due to the formation of a saltmarsh
LOW CLIFF ~ sometimes separates the saltmarsh from the unvegetated mudflats on the seaward side.
CREEKS ~
- Extensive network of small, steep-sided channels
- drain the marsh at low tide and provide routes for the sea to enter as the tide rises.
Structures that are found due to the formation of a saltmarsh
SALTPANS ~
- found between creeks
- shallow depressions
- trap water when the tide falls and lack any vegetation.
FLOCS ~
- formed by flocculation of clay particles
- tiny particles carry an electrical charge & attracted to each other in salty water
- clump together to form flocs
- large & heavy so deposited
Deltas ~ FORMATION
DEPOSITION by rivers & tidal currents > REMOVAL by waves & tides
Deltas ~ 3 DISTINCTIVE COMPONENTS
UPPER DELTA PLAIN:
- furthest inland
- beyond reach of tides
- composition ~ river deposits
LOWER DELTA PLAIN:
- inter-tidal zone
- regularly submerged
- composition ~ river & marine deposits
SUBMERGED DELTA PLAIN:
- lies below mean low water mark
- composition ~ marine sediments
3 different types of deltas
CUSPATE:
- pointed extension to coastline
- Occurs when sediment accumulates
- gentle currents from opposite directions
- Has few distributaries
ARCUATE:
- Sufficient sediment supply causes the delta to grow seawards
- Strong wave action smooths & trims leading edge
- Has several distributaries.
- Triangular / fan shaped
BIRDS FOOT :
- Tide dominated
- Sediment supply exceeds the rate of removal by waves and tides
- Has many distributaries
- Birds foot shaped
Dunes