1
Q
Yarn
A
generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric
2
Q
Filament yarns are produced from-
A
- filament fibers reeled from silk cocoons
- polymers extruded through a spinneret
3
Q
multifilament yarns
A
yarns made of many filament fibers
4
Q
spun yarns
A
- produced by twisting together staple fibers
- the twist holds the short fibers together
- made of naturally occurring staple fibers or filament fibers cut into short fibers for spinning
5
Q
Blend
A
yarn obtained when two or more staple fibers are combined in a textile process for producing spun yarns
6
Q
intimate blend
A
- has an even distribution of fiber
- ex) cotton/polyester blends commonly used for shirts and bed linens
7
Q
combination/mixture yarn
A
- plied yarn containing two or more yarns that vary in fiber composition, content, and/or twist level
- plied yarn composed of both filament yarn and spun yarn
8
Q
opening
A
loosens, cleans, blends, and prepares fiber by removing waste
9
Q
carding
A
partially aligns the fibers and forms them into a thin web that is brought together as a soft, weak, rope called sliver.
10
Q
drawing
A
increases the parallelism of the fibers and combines several carded and combed slivers into one drawn sliver
11
Q
combing
A
an extra step to create a superior yarn with smoothness, fineness, evenness, and strength
12
Q
Roving
A
this step reduces the drawn sliver, increases the parallel alignment of the fibers, and the inserts a small amount of twist in the strand
13
Q
simple yarns
A
- have uniform size and regular surface.
- divided into single, plied, cord, and rope yarns
14
Q
single yarn
A
- simplest type of yarn
- commonly produced by twisting together staple or filament fibers
- include spun, monofilament, and multifilament
15
Q
plied yarn
A
- produced by twisting two or more single yarns
- each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply; four single yarns twisted together would form a four-ply yarn
16
Q
cord yarn
A
produced by twisting two or more plied yarns
17
Q
rope yarns
A
produced by twisting two or more cord yarns
18
Q
novelty/fancy yarn
A
- typically made of two or more strands, provides decorative surface effects
- strands may be referred to as base/core, effect, or binder depending on their purpose
19
Q
base/core strand
A
provides structure and strength
20
Q
effect strand
A
creates decorative details, knots, or loops
21
Q
binder strand
A
ties the effect yarn to the base yarn if binding is necessary
22
Q
yarn number
A
- relative measure of the fineness of yarns
- two classes of systems are in use: direct and indirect yarn number
23
Q
direct yarn number
A
- mass per unit length of yarn
- system is used for silk and manufactured filament yarns
- the lower the number the finer the yarn
24
Q
indirect yarn number
A
- length per unit mass of yarn
- system is used for cotton, wool, linen type spun yarns
- yarn size of a single yarn or strand is the number of hanks in one pound, the higher the number the finer the yarn
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s-twist
yarns twisted clockwise
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z-twist
yarns twisted counter clockwise
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crepe effect
produced by alternating s and z twist yarns
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woven fabrics
- produced by interlacing perpendicular yarns.
- includes a warp and weft
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knitted fabrics
- formed by interlooping yarns in a horizontal or vertical direction
- includes wales (length) and courses (width)
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non woven fabrics
- also called fiber webs
- manufactured directly from fibers
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Warp
- yarn running lengthwise on the loom, parallel to the selvage, and perpendicular to filling yarns
- warp yarns must withstand stress during weaving
- warp yarn (ends) are stringer and closer together than filling yarns
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filling
- (called weft yarns or picks) yarn running crosswise on the loom perpendicular to the selvage and the warp yarns
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selvage
the narrow edge of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. Made with stronger yarns in a tighter construction than the body of the fabric to prevent raveling.
34
how has weaving evolved?
weaving has evolved from simple techniques (like card and backstrap) to very sophisticated. computerized, shuttleless machines that operate at very high speeds.
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simple looms
still used despite technological advancements to produce hand woven fabrics
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power shuttle looms
mechanized versions of simple shuttle loom, produces narrow and wide width fabrics
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shuttleless looms
- produce fabrics at very high speeds, yarn is carried from one selvage to another without a shuttle
- divided into: projectile, rapier, air jet, and water jet
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fabric weight
important characteristic for describing and identifying for trade, naming, and selecting a fabric for a specific end-use
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fabric/yarn count
number of ends (warp yarns) and picks (filling/weft yarns) counted per inch in a woven fabric
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balanced weave
- a woven construction in which the same size yarn and the same number of threads per inch are used in both warp and filling directions
- strength and wrinkle recovery are similar in the warp and filling directions.
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unbalanced weave
- unequal number of yarns when comparing the number of yarns per inch for the warp and weft
- yarn size is generally larger and creates a ribbed effect along the surface of the fabric
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what are the three basic weaves?
plain, twill, and satin
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plain or tabby weaves
- results from the most basic interlacing of warp and filling yarns.
- It is the simplest and most common used weave
- the face and back are the same unless printed or finished on one side
- ex) chiffon, cheese cloth, organza
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Rib weave
thick or more than one yarn is used in the warp or filling direction to give the fabric a rib effect
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Basket weave
- variation of plain weave where two or more yarns in the warp and/or filling direction are treated as a set.
- identified by the number of yarns in each set
- first number represents warp yarns and the second number represents the filling
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Twill weave
- fabric is characterized by diagonal ridges
- left hand twill diagonal is from lower left to upper right
- right hand twill diagonal is from lower right to upper left
- classified as even and uneven sided
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even sided twill
- warp yarn goes over and under the same number of yarns
- in 2/2 twill weave warp goes over 2 and under 2 filling yarns
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uneven sided twill
- the warp yarn goes over and under a different number of yarns
- in a 2/1 twill weave the warp goes over 2 and under 1 filling yarns
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satin weave
- characterized by long floats in the warp or filling direction
- floats occur when a yarn is not interlaced but "floats" over other yarns between points of interlacing
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sateen fabrics
traditionally filling-faced fabrics woven with cotton yarns for a softer luster. thought of as a filling faced fabric
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true crepe
The pebbly surface of the fabric is a result of the distortion of the fabric weave by the over twisted crepe or "lively" yarns as they shift once tension on the yarns
is released.
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complex weaves
all weaves except the basic weaves
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figure/novelty weaves
combos of basic weaves that do not require extra warp or filling yarn used to create a design
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surface figure weaves
extra yarns are inserted in the warp or filling direction during weaving to create a design
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pile weaves
require extra warp or filling yarns to form the pile created during weaving
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double cloth
requires three or more sets of yarns to form different effects on the face and back, including double cloth, double weave, and double face fabrics
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leno weave
crosses two or more warp yarns to hold the filling yarn in position
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crepe weave
creates texture by random interlacing or warp and filling yarns
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dobby weaves
have small geometric designs with straight lines in at least one direction. they have fewer than 25 yarn interlacing arrangements before the design repeats
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jacquard weaves
figure weaves with large repeats or non-repeating designs with curves. They contain more than 25 yarn interlacing arrangements before the design repeats.
61
woven pile
- produced by inserting an extra set of warp or filling yarns during weaving to create a raised surface.
-The raised surface created by loops of the extra yarns, or the pile resulting from cutting the loops, can be on one or both sides of the base fabric.
-Pile fabrics are defined by the direction the extra set of yarns is inserted to form loops or floats (warp-pile or filling-pile), or by the type of raised surface (loops or cut pile).
- terry cloth and velvet are warp pile fabrics
- velveteen and corduroy are weft pile fabrics
62
Knitting
- the fabrication process in which needles are used to form a series of interlocking loops from one or more yarns or from one or more yarn sets.
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full fashioned
a term applied to fabrics produced on a flat-knitting machine, such as hosiery, sweaters, and underwear, that have been shaped by adding or reducing stitches
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wale
a column of loops (looks like “V”s) lying lengthwise in the fabric. The upper loop is not visible. Wales per inch measures the fineness of the fabric and yarn size.
65
course
the row of loops or stitches running across a knit fabric. The top of the yarn loop is visible.
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fabric count
The number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. Written as number of wales x number of courses. Count for a fabric with 18 wales per inch and 21 courses per inch is written as 18 x 21 and read as 18 by 21. Fabric count for knits is often lower for woven.
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Gauge
he number of needles per given distance in a knitting machine. The higher the gauge, the finer the knit.
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Flatbed Machine
- The yarn is carried back and forth across the bed of needles
- Used to produce yardage and fashioned(shaped) garments and product parts
- single and double needle
- Rarely skew because of yarn delivery system
- can be as wide as 100 inches
69
circular machine
- the yarn is carried in a spiral like the threads of a screw
- Production is faster
- Described in terms of diameter of fabric tube
- Resulting fabric can have significant skew
- Used to produce yardage, sweaters and t-shirt bodies, hosiery and socks
70
weft knits
- produced by interlooping the yarn in the horizontal (weft or filling) direction.
- Horizontal yarns, loops joined to one another in same course, larger design possibility, less dense
structure, two-way stretch, high ravel and run, hand or machine produced, flat or circular machine
type, finished edges possible, produced as shaped garments, garment pieces, and yardage
71
warp knits
- produced by interlooping yarns in the vertical (warp) direction.
- Vertical yarns, loops joined to one another in adjoining courses, loops connect diagonally, higher
productivity, denser structure, crosswise stretch, little lengthwise stretch, little or no ravel and run,
machine produced only, flat machine type, seldom have finished edges, produced as yardage only
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Knit stitch
most common, used to produce jersey knit, have greater crosswise and less lengthwise elongation.
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purl/reverse stitch
-forms a fabric that looks like the technical back of the knit stitch and both sides look the same.
-Purl knit fabrics are slow and expensive and require a special machine to create them.
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Tuck stitch
used to create fancy knit structure, they are created when previous stitches are not cleared from the needle
and the next set of stitches sits atop the last.
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float/miss stitch
used to create fancy knit structure, they are created when no new stitch is formed at a needle even
though adjacent needles form new stitches.
76
loop transfers
the loop is transferred to an adjacent needle), used in addition to the four types of stitches to create endless designs with yarns of different types, colors, and sizes.
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single filling knit
he simplest filling knit, it’s made using one set of needles
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Jersey
single filling knit fabric with no distinct rib of any fiber content; can be knit flat or circular
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Lisle
a high quality jersey made of fine two-ply combed cotton yarns
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jacquard jersey
a jersey knit with a pattern that uses a combination of knit, tuck and miss stitches.
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Intarsia
a type of filling knit fabric in which yarns that appear on the surface of the fabric are discontinuous - knit
counterpart to tapestry
82
Pile jersey (terrycloth, sliver-pile, velour, fake fur)
a filling knit made with two sets of yarns, in which one set forms the base structure and the other set forms the pile
83
spacer fabric
a 3D technical fabric
84
fleece
a type of weft insertion knit fabric
85
gait
the arrangement of needles in a double-knitting machine
86
rib gaiting
a double needle bed arrangement where needles in one bed are directly opposite the spaces in the
other bed.
87
interlock gaiting
a double needle bed arrangement where needles in one bed are directly opposite the needles in
the other bed.
88
Purl gaiting
a special arrangement unique to purl knit structure
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double filling knit
a filling knit fabric made on a machine with two sets of needles in two needle beds
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jacquard double knit
a patterned filling knit fabric made on a double knitting machine
91
Tricot (brushed or napped)
- Produced on flat knitting machines with uniform, smooth or textured, filament yarns.
- Tricot knits have vertical V-shaped stitches on the technical face and slanted horizontal lines on the technical back.
- The slanted horizontal lines, known as underlaps, are created by the sideways movement of yarns from one needle to another in the inter-looping process. The length of the underlap depends on the distance the yarn moves sideways to form a stitch.
92
Raschel
- Basic raschel knits consist of one set of yarns that produce a “pillar stitch” resembling a chain stitch, and
other yarns that fill in the area between the pillars. Pillars produced along the fabric length provide strength.
- The yarns are inter-looped or interlaid between the pillars and create the design. The pillars are made of strong, fine, and transparent or less conspicuous yarns. - Yarns of different colors and textures are used between the pillars to create the design.
- Many variations in needles, guide bars, etc., and the ability of latch needles to handle a variety of spun
and filament yarns creates fabrics with very different characteristics.
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order of processing spun yarn
opening, carding, drawing, combing, roving
94
what is not produced on a dobby loom?
photographic design
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what's the most basic knit stitch?
knit stitch/jersey
