What is longshore drift
waves approach beach at a 90 angle due to prevailing winds.
swash carriers some material up beach
backwash carries material directly down the beach
What are rip currents
strong currents moving away from the shoreline
Spit formation
longshore drift deposits sand and shingle across a river mouth, leaving a bank of sand and shingle sitcking out to sea
A spit is formed by LSD, which transports sediment along the coast. Where the coastline changes direction or meets a river mouth, the sediment is deposited, extending out to sea.
Over time the spit grows and may develop a recurved end due to wave refraction or wind direction
compound spit
changes in dominant wind and wave direction lead to a curved end
Bar
a bar is formed where a spit grows the whole way across a bay
behind bar is a lagoon
overtime filled with silt and may gradually form a salt marsh
Where are Mudflats found
found on edges of submerged marine zone
exposed to low tide- water left their in permanent channels
Eustatic change
sea level change caused by a change in volume of water in the sea
How are isostatic changes caused
caused by vertical movements of the land relative to the sea
Submergent coastlines
submerged by the sea due to rise in sea level
emergent
exposed to sea due to fall in se levels
What is the integrated coastal zone management
considers all elemts of the coastal system
considers tourism, fishing, tourism
tropical storm
form between 5- 30 lattitude
27 degrees
warm moist air rises quickly- creating strong winds
Explain the formation of a wave-cut platform (4 marks)
Forms when waves erode the base of the cliff through hydraluic action and abrasion creating a wave-cut notch.
overtime, the notch deepens and the overhanghing rock becomes unstable and collapses.
As this process repeats, the cliff retreast inland and leaves behind a gently sloping platform of exposed rock at the base of the cliff
Explain how headlands and bays form on a discordant coastline (4 marks)
Form on discordant coastline where bands of hard and soft rock run perpendicular to the coast.
The soft rock, like cly, erodes more quickly than the hard rock, such as limestone.
the differential erosion creates indented areas called bays and more resistant protrusions called headlands
Explain the formation of a stack from a headland (4 marks)
Erosion occurs at a line of weakness in a headland, forming a cave through hydraulic action and abrasion
Continued erosion deepens the cave unitl it breaks through the headland, creating an arch.
Eventually, the arch roof collapses, forming a stacl, which is an isolated pillar of rock.
Explain how sand dunes develop along a coastline (4 marks)
Sand dunes form when dry sand is blown inland by wind and is trapped by obstacles like driftwood.
As sand accumulates, embryo dunes form, which grows as vegetation like marram grass stabilises them.
Overtime, these develop into foredunes and grey dunes through succession
Explain how a tombolo forms (4 marks)
A tombolo is formed when sediment is transported by longshore drfit and deposited between the mainland and an offshore island
Overtime, this sediment builds up and connects the island to the mainland, forming a narrow strip of land.
Explain how geology influences the formation of coastal landforms (4 marks)
Geology affects coastal landforms by determining rock resistance and structure.
Hard rocks like granite erode slowly, forming steep cliffs of headlands, while soft rocks like clay erode faster, creating bays.
Rock structure also matters; concordant coasts resist erosion differently than discordant ones due to parallel or perpenidcular rock alignment
Explain the formation of a cave (4 marks)
Caves form when waves exploit weaknesses in a cliff such as joints or faults through hydralic action and abrasion
Overtime, continious erosion enlarges the cracks into a hollow feature.
A waves repeatedly enter and erode the rock the cabe widens and deepens
Explain the formation of a bar (4 marks)
a bar forms when LSD transports sediment across the entrance of a bay.
If the bay is shallow and no river flows through it, sediment builds up and seals the bay from the sea
This creates a ridge of sand or shingle across the bay, forming a bar with a lagoon behind it
Explain how LSD contributed to the formation of beaches (4 marks)
LSD moves sediment along the coast in the direction of the prevailing wind.
Sediment is picked up by swash at an angle an dreturned by backwash at 90 degrees- creating a zigzag movement.
This causes deposition in sheltered areas, forming drift-aligned beaches.
Explain how a recurved spit develops (4 marks)
a recurved spit forms when longshore drift deposits sediment at a change in the coastline direction.
As the spit grows, wave refraction or secondary wind directions cause the end to curve inward
this creates a hooked or recurved tip
Explain how salt marshes form behind spits or barier islands (4 marks)
salt marshes for in the sheltered, low-energy water behind spits or barrier islands.
Fine sediment is deposited and begins to accumulate. As sediment builds up, oioner vegetation colonises the mudflats, trapping more sediment and promoting vertical growth.
Overtime, this leads to full salt marsh development
Explain the formation of dune succession from embryo dunes to grey dunes
Embryo dunes form when sand is trapped by obstacles like driftwood.
These dunes are colonised by hardy pioneer speices like marram grass, forming foreduness\
Overtime as organic matter accumulates, soil quality improves, allowing more vegetation to grow.
This leads to mature grey dunes inland