lec 20

Question 1

where were three early origins of perfume?

Answer 1

1. ancient china used in ceremonies and as incense clocks that indicated the hour as they burned
2. indus civilization
3. egypt figured it out by 3000 BCE

Question 2

who was the world’s first perfume maker, and where were they recorded?

Answer 2

a woman named tapputi in 1200 BCE Babylonian Mesopotamia

Question 3

what is the different between a synthetic and natural odorant

Answer 3

its in the name…

Question 4

what is the most commonly used synthetic aromatic?

Answer 4

white musk for that ‘clean’ laundry scent

Question 5

what is musk?

Answer 5

a natural compound prod by animals and some plants

animals that have it have ‘musk’ in their name ex. muskrat, musk ox, musk deer

Question 6

what is the difference bw real and synth musk? where did we get synth musk from?

Answer 6

synth musk has a cleaner, smoother, sweeter scent (and it lacks the fecal notes)

accidentally discovered in 1888 when albert baur was trying to make TNT

Question 7

what are the five classes of oil extraction

Answer 7

1. concretes: immerse fragrant plant part in an organic solvent which dissolves the oil
2. resinoids: dissolve resins in organic solvent
3. absolute: extract concrete oil with alcohol (more concentrated)
4. distillation: expose plant part to steam, which takes away the volatile oils
5. tinctures: extract essential oils in 95% ethanol

Question 8

there are two trad ways to make concretes and absolutes. what are they

Answer 8

maceration: chop up plant part, put it in hot fat/oil, extract with alcohol

enfleurage: press petals into pure lard, repeating over and over until the fat is saturated with essential oils

Question 9

what are the five main families of scents?

Answer 9

flora, woody, aromatic fougere, oriental, and fresh
(first four are from classic terminology, ‘fresh’ is from the modern oceanic category)