Lipohilic Zone in skin
stratum corneum & viable epidermis
Hydrophilic zone in skin
dermis and vasculature
Routes of skin penetration
transfollicular, direct transdermal, and via eccrine gland.
Oil based cleansers/scrubs
W/O or O/W emulsions, with high mineral oil phase
Water/surfatcant based cleansers/scrubs
mild detergent/surfactants or soaps with conditioning agents or polyquats, actives, and maybe abrasives.
Masks
clay based suspensions or emulsions. peel off masks include polyvinyl alcohol, and can contain actives.
Toners
Clear skin for application of moisturizers, treatments, and liquid makeup. Alcohol/water based or alcohol free with surfactants. With or without actives.