Decorative Pot Plants
Cyclamen persicum (Persian Cyclamen)
Description
-Grown from a tuber
-Well suited to display in a conservatory or cool windowsill in winter and spring
Decorative Pot Plants
Cyclamen persicum (Persian Cyclamen)
Propagation and Establishment
-Soak seeds overnight (12 hours) to soften seed coat and aid germination
-Sow in seed trays or modules filled with seed compost in August and cover with grit to exclude light
-Pot on into 7.5 cm pots with soil based peat free compost once large enough to handle
- Will take 1 1/2 years to flower if grown from seed
Decorative Pot Plants
Cyclamen persicum (Persian Cyclamen)
Maintenance
-Temperature of around 13 – 15° C
-Water from beneath to avoid wetting tuber
-Place in bright, indirect light
-Likes humidity so mist occasionally
-Cover pot with gravel to reatin moisture
-Stand pot in tray of water to create humid microclimate
-Keep compost moist and feed every 2 weeks
-When plant dies back keep compost almost dry and store somewhere cool while dormant
-Repot in summer before it begins to grow in 13 cm pot with soil based peat free compost
- don’t fully cover tuber
Decorative Pot Plants
Cyclamen persicum (Persian Cyclamen)
Pests
Vine Weevil
- larvae live in compost and feed on roots and tuber
-check pot for grubs by gently knocking plant out of pot
-treat with nematode worms (biocontrol) that burrow into larvae and kill them
-keep protected structure free from debris that harbour adult beetles
-regualrly monitor for adults and larvae
Scariad Fly / Fungus Gnat
- larvae live on organic matter in compost
- damage young roots and can carry fungal spores
- cover with gravel or grit to keep adult from laying eggs in compost
- don’t overwater to discourage egg laying in compost
- use sticky traps
-biocontrol with Hypoaspis mites
-repot infested plants
Cylamen mite and red spider mite
- raise humidity to discourage mites
- remove distorted leaves infested with mites
Decorative Pot Plants
Cyclamen persicum (Persian Cyclamen)
Diseases
Grey mould caused by Botyris
-stems and flowers go brown and collapse developing grey fluffy growth
-increase air circulation
-remove dead leaves and flowers
-water from beneath
Decorative Pot Plants
Cyclamen persicum (Persian Cyclamen)
Disorders
yellowing of leaves sign of overwatering
Cut Flowers
Chrysanthemum x morifolium
Description
- variety of flowerhead types
- grown both as pot plants and cut flowers
Cut flowers
= annuals
= decorative varieties with medium to large blooms
=propagated from cuttings in spring
= early-flowering (outdoor) and late-flowering (greenhouse Otober to December)
Cut Flowers
Chrysanthemum x morifolium
Propagation and establishment
- softwood cuttings from new shoots early in growing season
- take cuttings close to base of stool
- trim cuttings to 5 – 10cm below a node
- remove lower leaves to leave 5 or so at tip of stem
- dip base of cuttings in rooting hormone powder to encourage rooting
- Insert cuttings into cuttings compost and place in propagator at 10°C
- should root in a few weeks
- transfer new plants into 7 - 9cm pots and pot on as they grow
- Final 20cm pot in May
- Use healthy pest free porpagation materials and observe good hygiene
Cut Flowers
Chrysanthemum x morifolium
Maintenance
- support with a cane and tie in as it grows
- water regularly
- feed with liquid feed every 7 - 10 days until buds are nearly fully developed
- late flowering Chrysanthemums can be put outside in summer and brought under cover over winter
- after plant dies back trim stems to hand length in height and remove all leaves
- lift out of pot removing compost and trimming any straggly roots
- place stools in trays of damp compost in cool frost free environment (unheated greenhouse or insulated cold frame)
- do not water again until new shoots appear
- new shoots can be used to porpagate new plants
Cut Flowers
Chrysanthemum x morifolium
Florists techniques
Stopping
in midsummer brings forward flowering and increases bloom size
Stopping = removal of growing tips to stimulate early growth of flower bearing side shoots (breaks)
Disbudding = after stopping removal of all lateral buds and shoots on a stem to produce single stemmed superbloom
Cut Flowers
Chrysanthemum x morifolium
Pests Diseases and disorders
Aphids
-screen vents with mesh to prevent winged aphids
- companion planting with Allium sativum (garlic)
- remove infested leaves and squash aphids colonies with your fingers
- two spot ladybird is native biocontrol
Chrysanthemum white rust
- pale yellow spots on leaf
- pale brown or white spore structures on underside of leaf
- caused by fungus
- lower quality blooms and unsightly foliage
- remove infected leaves immediately and destroy
- treat with tebuconazole fungicide
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Chrysanthemum are also prone to glasshouse red spider mite, Chrysanthemum eelworm and Botrytis
Bedding Plants
Impatiens walleriana
Description
- popular bedding plant in a variety of colours
- a perennial groen as an annual
- propagated from seed (very fine seed)
- will grow in full sun, partial shade or shade
Bedding Plants
Impatiens walleriana
Propagation and Establishment
- use fresh good quality seed stored in cool conditions
- sow thinly over seed tray fiiled with fine seed compost
- require light to germinate so do not cover or cover very lightly
- water with a very fine rose or soak in a watering tray to avoid disturbing seed
- cover and keep at 18°C out of direct sunlight
- remove cover once seeds have germinated
- thin out overcrowded seedlings to ensure good health
- prick out into cell trays once large enough to handle and plant in hole to depth just above cotyledons
- harden off and plant out after risk of frost has passed
- plant into containers with moisture retentive but free draining medium or into beds 25 cm apart
Bedding Plants
Impatiens walleriana
Maintenance
- keep soil moist but don’t overwater
- stopping (picnhing out shoot tips every few weeks) will increase the number of buds
- deadheading will prolong flowering
Bedding Plants
Impatiens walleriana
Pests and Diseases
Pests
- glasshouse whitefly
- red spider mites
- aphids
Downy mildew
- fungus like organsism
-causes yellowing of leaves, leaf loss and death in wet weather
-no treatment available
-remove and destroy infected plants
- don’t grow in beds where infected plants have grown for at least a year
- grow resistant cultivars
Botyris
- affects flower buds, leaves and fleshy stems
- ensure adequate spacing and air circulations
- remove infected material
Damping off
- caused by fungi
- seed stems rot and dies off
- adequate spacing of seeds and remove cover once germinated to imrpove air circulation
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Bulbs
Narcissus ‘Tete a Tete’
Description
- dwarf daffodil ideal for indoor display in pots in greenhouses, conservatories and windowsills
- can be forced to flower in early spring
- expose to a dark a chilled period then bring on in a warmer, light environment
Bulbs
Narcissus ‘Tete a Tete’
Propagation and Establishment
- or divide from established bulbs
- lift existing clumps and remove offsets
- small offsets may need groing on for 1 or two years in pots in a protected environment
- reject soft or spongy bulbs that might have bulb rot
- plant in early October in well moistened bulb fibre compost
- arrange bulbs close together but not touching with bulb crowns above medium
- place in a cool (4 - 5°C) dark place for 3 months
- keep compost moist but not over wet
- when shoots are 3-5 cm high move to cool position (10°C) in indirect sunlight
- ## when leaves are green move to display position (close to window, 16°C optimum will tolerate 15-20°C)
Bulbs
Narcissus ‘Tete a Tete’
Maintenance
- erratic watering = bud fail to open
- overwatering will cause bulb rot
- water consistantly
- turn pot to ensure even growth
- deadhead after flowering and continue to water untill leaves die back
- remove dead foliage and store bulbs in a cool dry place
- if stroing outdoors, store in sand or gravel for extra protection
- can’t use for second display so plant out bulbs in garden in autumn
Bulbs
Narcissus ‘Tete a Tete’
Pests, diseases and disorders
- red spider mite
- sciarid fly
- narcissus fly larvae (ususally only outdoors)
Daffodil basal rot
- caused by fungus
- particular issue for stored bulbs
- whitish fingal growth bween sacles and on basal plat
- bulbs look mummified
-planted bulbs foliage turns yellow and bulb neck rots
- discard infected bulbs
- use resistant cultivars
- don’t plant in ground where infected bulbs have grown
Daffodil blindness
- bulbs fail to flower
- caused by unsuitable environmental conditions
- overcrowding, dry soil, lack of nutrients, removing green foliage after flowering
- can be caused by pests and diseases
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Edilble crops
Solanum lycopersum (Tomato)
Description
- commonly grown as a salad crop
- tender perennial grown as annual
- bush / cordon varieties
- minumum temperature 16°C but do best at 21 and 24°C
- tolerate fairly acidic to neutral soils
- heavy feeders
Edible crops
Solanum lycopersum (Tomato)
Disadvantages to growing indoors
- more prone to disorders caused by environmental conditions and glasshouse pests
- light levels lower than outside (can compensate with supplemental lighting)
- increased cost and equipment required
- more watering needed
- lack of pollinators (commercial greenhouses use bumblebee colonies)
Edible crops
Solanum lycopersum (Tomato)
Propagation and Establishment
- sow seed in trays (broadcast 200 - 250 per tray) or in modules with seed compost
- cover to 2cm with compost or vermiculite
- maintain at 18°C
- sow Jan / Feb in heated propagator or greenhouse
-sow Feb / Mar in unheated greenhouse - use sterile compost and good hygiene
- once first true leaves appear prick out into 7.5 - 9 cm pots with multipurpse compost
- when flowers on first truss starting to open pot into final pot/position
- 40 apart in beds
- 2-3 plants per growbag
- dig hole big enough for root bole, backfill firm in and water in well
- keep well watered
Edible crops
Solanum lycopersum (Tomato)
Maintenance
Cordon Tomatoes
- stake and tie in or grow around a vertically hung string
- pinch out side shoots from leaf axils
- pinch out growing tip once plant has several trusses two leaves above topmost truss
Bush tomatoes may need staking but not pinching out as fruits are produced from growing tips
- keep well watered and water from bottom to prevent blight
- ## feed fortnightly until fruit starts to set then once a week with high potatssium fertiliser
Edible crops
Solanum lycopersum (Tomato)
Pests and Diseases
Glasshouse Whitefly
- suck sap and transfer diseases like tabacco mosaic virus
-control with sticky traps, prasitoid wasps,
Red Spider Mite
- pierce plant cells and suck out contents
- leaves mottle then yellow or bronze and fall of and die
- spin webbing on plants
- control by misting, predatory mite supplied in vermiculite
Fungal diseases
- damping off, stem rot
- control by good hygeine, air circulation, lowering humidity
Disorders
- blossom end rot caused by lack of calcium due to erratic watering
- water regularljy and consistently
other pests: leaf minors, thrips, caterpillars, aphids
