1
Q
What are the different points of sail?
A
No-sail zone Close-hauled Close reach Beam reach Broad reach Run
2
Q
What is apparent wind?
A
A combination of the true wind and the wind you create by virtue of your own motion through the air.
3
Q
What’s the difference between a dinghy and a keelboat?
A
A dinghy is a small sailboat, usually under 20 feet long. A keelboat starts at about 20 feet, and has no upper length limit.
4
Q
How are sailboats measured?
A
LOA - length overall beam - width at its widest point LWL - length on waterline draft - depth of boat below waterline freeboard - height of hull above waterline
5
Q
What’s a spar?
A
Any type of pole used to support a sail, such as a mast or boom.
6
Q
What are these parts of a sail?
head luff tack foot clew batten leech
A
head - the top of a sail
luff - the forward edge of a sail
tack - the forward lower corner of a sail
foot - the bottom edge of a sail
clew - the aft lower corner of a sail
batten - a slat inserted in the leech to support the sailcloth
leech - the after edge of a sail
7
Q
What’s standing rigging?
A
Standing rigging is rigging that remains fixed in place even when no sails are set.
8
Q
What are stays?
A
Wire cables that hold the mast in its fore and aft position, such as a backstay or forestay/headstay.
9
Q
What are shrouds?
A
Wire cables that provide sideways support for the mast. They run from the mast down to the outer edge of the deck to fittings called chainplates.
10
Q
What is running rigging?
A
Lines used to control the trim and shape of the sails.
11
Q
What is a sheet?
A
The primary line that controls the trim of a sail by setting the angle of the sail relative to the wind. It’s usually named for the sail it controls (mainsheet, jibsheet, etc.).
12
Q
What’s a halyard?
A
A line used to raise a sail.
13
Q
How do you rig a mainsail?
A
- Remove the mainsail from its bag.
- Locate the tack, at the forward end of the sail’s foot, and attach it to the gooseneck, at the forward end of the boom.
- Locate the clew at the other end of the sail’s foot, and attach it.
- If the sail is attached only at the tack and clew, it’s said to be a loose-footed mainsail. Otherwise, the foot is attached along the length of the boom, either with slugs or a bolt rope (a thick rope sewn once the foot that slides into a groove along the top of the boom).
- Feed the slug or bolt rope end closest to the clew into the slot at the front of the boom, and pull the clew all the way aft which continuing to feed the foot into the boom. When it’s fully stretched, attach it, usually with a shackle.
- When the clew is secure, attach the tack at the gooseneck.
- Secure the battens in their pockets.
- Identify the system by which the luff will be attached to the mast. This is often similar to how the foot is attached.
- A sail with a bolt-rope luff can’t really be pre-rigged, but if slugs are employed, you may be able to feed most or all of them into the mast prior to hoisting.
14
Q
A boat sailing across the wind is said to be…
A
…reaching.
15
Q
Identify parts of a sailboat, parts of a sail, sailboat’s rig, and on-board orientation on page 26.
A
…
16
Q
Why does a jib have two sheets?
A
If the wind is blowing on the port side of the boat, you adjust the jib with the port jibsheet. If the wind is blowing on the starboard side, you use the starboard jibsheet.
17
Q
How do you rig the mainsail?
A
- Attach the tack to or near the gooseneck, at the forward end of the boom.
- Attach the foot of the sail along the length of the boom, either with slugs or a bolt rope.
- Attach the clew to a car that can slide on a short track on the boom. The car’s position is adjusted by an outhaul.
- Insert the battens in the batten pockets.
- Attach the luff to the mast, with a bolt rope or slugs.
18
Q
How do you attach the main halyard?
A
- Look aloft to see the halyard where it exits the aft side of the mainsail. Trace it down to where it’s shackled.
- Unclip the shackle, and attach it to the mainsail’s headboard.
- Never unfasten either end of any halyard and let it go.
19
Q
How do you attach a jib?
A
- Remove the jib from its bag, lay it out on the foredeck, and identify its three corners. The head is the narrowest. Orient the sail so that the tack is nearest the bow and the clew is aft, closest to the mast.
- Secure the tack of the jib to the fitting at the base of the forestay using the shackle or other device provided.
- Beginning with the hank nearest the tack, attach the hanks to the forestay.
- If the two jib sheets are not already attached, tie one end of each to the clew ring or grommet, using a bowline.
- Find the jib halyard shackle by looking up the mast for a halyard that exits on the forward side near the forestay’s attachment point. Trace it downward to find where the shackle is secured, then tug on it to locate the other end, which will likely be secured on the mast. Detach the jib halyard shackle from its stowed location and attach it immediately to the head of the jib. Look up to ensure that the halyard is clear and not snagged or wrapped anywhere. Make sure the halyard is still cleated at the other end.
- Unless you are hoisting the jib immediately, flake the rest of the sail to keep it compact and low and secure it to the boat with sail ties.
- Lead the jibsheets grow the clew back into the cockpit, one on either side of the mast. Each sheet will usually pass through a block or fairlead to its cleat or winch. When the jib sheet has been led through the correct path, tie a figure-eight stopper knot in its end so it can’t be pulled back through accidentally.
20
Q
How do you load a winch?
A
- Spin the winch with your hand to check which way it rotates.
- Add your wraps in the direction of rotation. Make your first wrap around the bottom of the winch, and work upward.
- Don’t let your hands get closer than 1 foot to the winch.
- Only insert the handle when you need it for grinding.
- When grinding, keep steady tension on the tail to prevent it from slipping. If the line begins to slip, pull harder on it or add another wrap.
- Single speed winches are grinded by turning clockwise. Two-speed winches have a second set of gears that is engaged by turning counter-clockwise (the winch drum still turns clockwise).
- Under high load, a winch is most effective with one crew member grinding, while another tails by pulling on the tail of the line as it comes off the winch.
- As you grind, make sure you, or someone guiding you, can see the sail or whatever is being affected by your grinding.
- When finished grinding, ensure the tail is well secured on a cleat with a cleat hitch, or in its jammer.
- Remove the winch handle from the winch after cleating the line.
21
Q
How do you ease and unload a winch?
A
- Make sure the tail is clear, then take hold of it and maintain tension on it.
- Uncleat the tail, hold it at the level of the winch, and carefully relax it.
- The line will slip on the winch drum while you control the pace at which it pays out. If you will be releasing the line completely, as the load decreases, you can take wraps off the winch.
22
Q
What are the danger areas on a boat?
A
- In or above the plane of the boom.
- On the leeward side of the boat.
- In the way of the jib and jib sheets.
- At the bow and stern.
The windward side of the cockpit below the level of the boom is generally safest.
23
Q
How do you hoist the mainsail?
A
- Orient the boat head to wind; with the bow pointed directly at the oncoming wind.
- If the boat is at a dock, you may have to position it so that it points into the wind. If possible, secure the boat with a single dock line running from the bow to the leeward side of the dock, so it will naturally point into the wind.
- Remove the sail ties.
- If the aft end of the boom is not supported by a topping lift but is tied off by a line from the backstay, free it and lower the boom end to the deck.
- Look aloft and ensure the halyard is clear and unfouled.
- Haul in on the tail of the halyard to take out excess slack.
- Check that anything that holds down the boom (mainsheet, boom vang, Cunningham, downhaul), are uncleated and free to run.
- Announce that you are hoisting the main. The crew should get clear of the boom.
- Hoist the halyard by hand until it gets difficult. Use the winch handle to complete the hoist, then cleat the halyard.
- Ease the boom topping lift enough that it will not become taught when the mainsheet is pulled tight.
- Coil the tail of the halyard, wrap it, and stow it properly.
- Adjust the outhaul, Cunningham, and boom vang as needed and cleat them.
24
Q
How do you sail free of the dock when the wind is blowing off the dock?
A
- Double the bow line, so it leads from the boat, around the dock fitting, and back to the boat. This is so you can cast off one end from the boat, and pull it aboard from the other.
- Cast off the other dock lines and swing to the bow line.
- Cast off the bow line and let the wind blow the boat off the dock. Hold the tiller all the way over to one side so it’s pointing in the direction you want the bow to turn to rotate the boat away from the wind. Keep the mainsheet fully released.
- Once you have turned so the wind is on the beam, slowly pull in on the mainsheet so the sail begins to fill. Move the tiller back to center.
- As the sail fills and the boat begins to move forward, pull the tiller slightly to windward so the boat will turn farther away from the wind and pick up speed.
- When the boat is pointing toward clear water, adjust the tiller to steer the boat in a straight line.
25
Where should you sit when steering with a tiller or wheel?
On the windward side of the cockpit, to get the best view of the sails and the boat's surroundings.
26
What can you check to see if you're steering steadily, and not working too hard?
Look at the wake behind the boat. If it looks like a snake, you're working too hard.
27
What do "head up" and "bear away" mean, and how do you do each one?
To head up is to turn the bow of the boat toward the wind, which you do by pushing the tiller to leeward, or the wheel to windward.
To bear away is to turn the bow of the boat away from the wind, which you do by pushing the tiller to windward or the wheel to leeward.
28
How do you trim for course?
Ease the mainsheet until the sail begins to luff along its front edge. Pull back in on the sheet slowly until the bubble at the luff just disappears. A "full" sail is not necessarily properly trimmed; you have to ease the sheet until you see the tiny beginning of a luff.
29
What's the golden rule of sail trim?
When in doubt, let it out!
30
How do you get out of irons?
1. Release the mainsheet so it's free to run, and push the tiller all the way to one side or the other.
2. As the boat begins to move backwards it will begin to turn. Keep the tiller jammed over until the boat is well out of the no-sail zone, with the wind on the beam.
3. Slowly trim the mainsail and bring the tiller toward the center, and you're off on a beam reach.
31
What are two ways to stop a sail from luffing?
Trim the sheet, or bear away.
32
How do you raise the jib?
1. Untie the jib, then sight up its halyard to make sure it can run free.
2. Trace the jibsheets from the clew to the cockpit and make sure they are rigged correctly and can run free. Haul in any excess slack, and coil or flake the tails in the cockpit.
3. Make sure the windward jib sheet is completely free. With the leeward jib sheet, take a couple of preparatory wraps around the winch, but don't put tension on the sheet until the sail has been hoisted.
4. Raise the jib by hauling on the halyard. If the boat has a head foil, hoist steadily and not too fast for the crew feeding the luff tape.
5. Apply enough tension to the luff to remove any "scallops" in the luff between the hanks. Too much tension will create vertical wrinkles along the luff.
6. Cleat the halyard and neatly coil the line. Hang it on the mast or stow it in a secure yet accessible area.
7. Trim the leeward jibsheet until the sail stops luffing, then cleat it. If the windward sheet has wrapped itself around the leeward sheet, a light tug on the windward sheet should untangle them.
33
Which jibsheet is known as the working sheet?
The leeward jibsheet. The windward is the lazy sheet.
34
How do you unfurl a roller-furling jib?
1. Steer the boat on a broad reach.
2. Trace the jibsheets from the clew to the cockpit and make sure they are rigged correctly and their tails coiled or faked and ready for use.
3. Find the furling line, which is wound on the spool at the base of the forestay and leads back to the cockpit. Make sure it's uncleated and ready to run free.
4. When ready, start pulling in on the leeward jib sheet and the sail will begin to unroll.
5. The wind will finish the job; just keep a little tension on the furling line so it winds up tidily on the spool.
6. Trim the leeward jib sheet until the sail stops luffing, then cleat it.
35
Why is it best to raise or unfurl a jib on a broad reach?
There is no heel, and the motion of the boat is steadier for any crew operating at the mast and on the foredeck. Also, the jib is blanketed from the wind by mainsail.
36
Generally, where should the helmsman sit?
On the windward side, for the best visibility and control.
37
How can you tell you're steering just a little too close to the wind (pinching)?
The jib begins to luff at its leading edge.
38
What do vertical wrinkles in a sail indicate?
Too much halyard tension. Carefully ease halyard tension one inch at a time until they disappear.
39
What do scallops between hanks or loose horizontal wrinkles along the luff indicate?
Too little luff tension. Ease the jib sheet or head up a little until the sail luffs and add halyard tension one inch at a time.
40
What's a synonym for tacking?
Coming about.
41
How do you tack a sailboat?
1. Make sure the boat is on a close-hauled course, and trim both sails so it's sailing efficiently, and at full speed. If you can, pick a landmark about 90° to windward and use it as a reference.
2. The helmsman scans all around the boat, particularly ahead and abeam to windward, looking for obstructions or other boats, then gives the command "Ready about".
3. A crewmember ensures that the tails of both jibsheets are clear and free to run.
4. The crew handling the working jibsheet prepares to release it. If it's on a winch, he can uncleat it, but must keep holding it tightly at the winch without easing it.
5. The crew at the lazy sheet pulls in any slack and puts one to three wraps around the winch, depending on the wind speed and the size of the winch.
6. When all crew responds "Ready", the helmsman announces the beginning of the turn with "Helm's a-lee", and pushes the tiller smoothly to leeward to initiate the turn (or, turns the top of the wheel toward the wind).
7. As the boat turns into the no-sail zone, it will luff more and more until it is completely flapping - before it fills with wind on the opposite side. When it just begins luffing, the load on the sheet will lessen. At that moment, release it quickly and completely. Simultaneously, the crew on the old lazy sheet quickly takes up all the slack while the sail is fully luffing as the boat's bow passes through the eye of the wind.
8. Turn at a consistent rate. Having moved across the boat to the "new" windward side during the turn, the helmsman centers the tiller or wheel to stop the turn with the boat close-hauled on the new tack.
9. Trim the new working jib sheet for the new course. The mainsail should need little if any trim adjustment on the new tack.
10. The cockpit crew coil their sheets, the winch handle is removed and stowed, and the helmsman concentrates on rebuilding the speed lost during the turn.
42
Why is sailing directly downwind dangerous?
It can easily result in an accidental jibe. Heading up 10° or so into a broad reach is generally preferable.
43
What are the steps to jibing from broad reach to broad reach?
1. Start on a broad reach with both sails trimmed correctly. Station a crew at each jibsheet and at the mainsheet.
2. After checking to make sure the water is clear, the helmsman gives the command "Prepare to jibe".
3. The crew on the working jibsheet prepares to release the sheet. The crew on the lazy sheet hauls in all the slack and takes a couple of wraps on the winch. When ready, they and the mainsheet trimmer respond by saying "Ready".
4. Everyone on board should take positions out of the way of the mainsheet and below the path the boom will take during the jibe.
5. The helmsman, still sitting to windward, then calls out "Jibe-ho", and begins to turn the boat slowly away from the wind by pulling the tiller toward him or turning the wheel in the direction the boat is to turn.
6. The mainsheet trimmer hauls in fast on the sheet while keeping the tail clear and ready to be eased back out after the jibe. As soon as the jib collapses, the crew on the new working jibsheet takes in slack and the old jibsheet is cast off.
7. As the boat turns past dead-downwind, the wind will catch the back side of the mainsail and push it across to the other side with tremendous force. The mainsheet crew must quickly but carefully allow the mainsheet to run out until the mainsail is set correctly for a broad reach on the new tack.
8. Once on a broad reach on the new tack, the helmsman changes to the new windward side and centers the helm. The crew trims the sails for the new heading.
44
What are the steps for sailing wing-on-wing, also known as "winging the jib" (sailing on a run, with jib and mainsail on opposite sides of the boat)?
1. Start from a broad reach with the boom vang snug and cleated and turn gradually downwind until the jib collapses because it has become blanketed from the wind by mainsail.
2. Ease the mainsheet all the way until the boom almost hits the shrouds.
3. Release the old leeward, working jibsheet and pull the windward jibsheet until the clew comes across and the sail fills with wind on the opposite side - to windward.
4. When sailing dead downwind, the helmsman needs to steer very carefully and very straight to avoid an accidental jibe, and to keep the wind filling the jib. Concentrate, and use a far-off landmark as a reference.
45
What's the warning sign that you are "sailing by the lee" (on a run with the wind on the same side of the boat as the mainsail), and right on the edge of an accidental jibe?
The mainsail leech begins to curl to windward. If this happens, turn the boat immediately back toward your original broad reaching course - tiller toward the boom, top of the wheel away from the boom.
46
What's one way to intentionally slow down a boat?
Release the sails' sheets while steering straight.
47
What are the secondary sail controls?
Outhaul, Cunningham/downhaul, halyard, boom vang.
48
Why are telltales useless when running?
Because the sail is no longer working like an airfoil.
49
How do the telltales look when the air is flowing smoothly over a jib?
The telltales on both sides of the jib flow back horizontally.
50
How is the power of the wind related to its velocity?
The power of the wind goes up by the square of its velocity. So, 20 knots of breeze packs four times the punch of 10 knots.
51
What's the tippiest (most-heeled) point of sail?
Close-hauled.
52
Why is a little weather helm considered a good quality?
Because if the helmsman has to leave the helm to tend to something else, the boat will head up and slow down. A boat with lee helm will turn downwind and perhaps even jibe.
53
How can you reduce heeling?
In order:
1. Move all the crew to the windward side of the boat.
2. Tighten the mainsail outhaul and increase luff tension on mainsail and jib.
3. When sailing close-hauled, steer the boat slightly closer to the wind so the sails are slightly under-trimmed (let the windward telltale dance).
4. Depower the mainsail. The general rule is to depower your sail plan from back to front, so start by easing the mainsheet or traveler.
5. Reduce sail area by dropping or furling the jib, or change to a smaller jib if one is available.
6. Reduce mainsail area by reefing.
54
How do you reef a mainsail?
You lower it part way, and attach it by a "new" tack and clew, a little way above the normal tack and clew.
55
How do you do a figure eight drill with tacking?
1. Set a pair of marks that are at least one minute of sailing apart, usually 12 boat lengths. The line between them should be perpendicular to the wind direction, so that when sailing between them you are on a beam reach.
2. Approach the marks on a steady port-tack beam reach to pass about one boat length downwind of mark #1.
3. When the farther mark (mark #2) is nearly abeam, head up smoothly to close-hauled and trim both sails accordingly.
4. Begin tacking, turning smoothly around mark #2.
5. Continue the smooth turn, bearing away on starboard tack until the boat is on a course heading about one boat length downwind of mark #1. Ease the sails as you bear away. Your point of sail will be between a beam reach and a broad reach on starboard tack. Trim for this course.
6. When you get to a spot that's one boat length directly downwind of mark #1, head up to a close-hauled course and trim accordingly.
7. Tack around mark #1, and bear away on a port-tack course heading one boat length downwind of mark #2.
8. Repeat the process, sailing a figure-eight pattern around the marks and tacking around each of them.
56
How do you do a figure eight drill with jibing?
1. Approach the marks on a steady port-tack beam reach to pass about one boat length upwind of mark #1. Maintain course. When mark #2 is nearly abeam, prepare your crew to jibe.
2. Begin bearing away and continue into a jibe as you sail around mark #2. Jibe slowly.
3. Set your course for a spot about one boat length upwind of mark #1. You will be sailing between a close reach and close-hauled on starboard tack. Trim for this course. Ensure that you have at least one minute of sailing before the next jibe.
4. When you get about one boat length directly upwind of mark #1, prepare your crew to jibe.
5. Bear away and jibe around the mark.
6. After the mainsail has been jibed safely, head up and aim for a point upwind of mark #2.
7. Repeat the process, following a figure-eight course as you jibe around the marks.
57
How do you slow the boat on a reach?
-Whenever possible, plan to slow the boat on a close reach, because it is the most forgiving point of sail.
1. Sail on a close reach. Pick an imaginary spot to stop.
2. Release the jibsheet, casting it completely off its winch or cleat. In stronger winds, the sail will flap violently and whip the jibsheets; take a little slack out of both sheets to quiet them. Try to find the maximum amount of sheet that you can pull in without trimming the sail, so it is still completely luffing and not driving the boat at all.
3. Release enough of the mainsheet so the mainsail is completely luffing too. As you release the sheets, the boat will slow down, heel less, and the rudder forces will change. Adjust your steering accordingly.
4. The boat will still keep moving through the water under its momentum until the frictional resistance of the water on the hull and the windage eventually bring it to a standstill.
5. The drill is complete when the boat is still moving forward on a close reach at crawling speed (less than 1 knot).
58
How do you slow a boat by steering?
Turning upwind is the fastest way to slow the boat in an emergency. However, this method doesn't provide the same low-speed steering control as does slowing on a close reach.
You can also slow a sailboat down very quickly by turning into the wind and sailing against the backed jib for a few seconds before releasing it.
59
Why would you back the jib in a tack?
In light winds, and on boats that are slow to tack, it's common practice to help the wind blow the boat through the no-sail zone by holding the jib aback for a few seconds. You do this by not immediately releasing the working sheet when the boat turns head to wind. If you commence a tack slower than half speed, or are stuck in irons, backing the jib will help turn the bow away from the wind onto the new close-hauled course.
If you are going to back the jib during a tack, ensure that the working jibsheet has enough wraps on the winch to resist the pull when the jib fills aback. Once the bow is turning out of the no-sail zone, release the working jibsheet. Don't hold it too long, or the backed jib will overpower the rudder and push the bow off course.
60
How do you heave-to?
1. Begin on a close-hauled course.
2. Commence a normal tack, but leave the jibsheet cleated.
3. As the boat turns onto the new close-hauled heading, leave the jib backed and release the mainsheet; the boat will begin to slow.
4. Push the tiller all the way to leeward so the boat travels along very slowly on a close-reaching course. The backed jib will be counteracting the turning force of the rudder. Now you are hove-to, at about 1/4 sailing speed, with very little heel.
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