Waves and Processes Flashcards

(26 cards)

1
Q

Coast

A

when land meets sea

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2
Q

what causes waves?

A

friction of wind on surface of water

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3
Q

swash

A

when waves hit the beach

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4
Q

backwash

A

when the waves go back to sea

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5
Q

3 factors that affect size of waves

A

time, speed and distance of wind

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6
Q

fetch

A

distance between wave and shore that wind blows

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7
Q

high waves

A

destructive waves

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8
Q

strong backwash

A

destructive waves

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9
Q

long low waves

A

constructive waves

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10
Q

break 6-9 times per min

A

constructive waves

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11
Q

cause erosion on cliff face

A

destructive waves

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12
Q

break 11-15 times per min

A

destructive waves

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13
Q

weak backwash

A

constructive waves

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14
Q

can form beaches

A

constructive waves

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15
Q

geomorphology

A

study of how coastlines change

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16
Q

weathering

A

when things like water and living organisms attack rocks, causing breakage and rot.

17
Q

sedimentary

A

type of hard rock less vulnerable to erosion

18
Q

glacial tilt

A

soft material from glaciers, mixture of clay and boulders

19
Q

subaerial erosion

A

weathering+ movement at top of cliff

20
Q

hydraulic action

A

pressure of water pushes into cracks in rock, causing rock to split apart

21
Q

abrasion

A

waves pick up rocks, throws against cliff face and smoothes cliff over time

22
Q

corrosion (solution)

A

salt and/or chemicals in water dissolves rock over time.

23
Q

attrition

A

small, angular rocks hit against each other, making them smaller+ rounder

24
Q

longshore drift

A

a type of transportation

25
steps of longshore drift
1. waves approach beach in direction of prevailing wind. 2. breaking waves force sediment up beach as swash 3. backwash moves sediment back down at a right angle with gravity
26
Causes for deposition
1. waves have less energy eg. wind strength lowers 2. waves r carrying too much 3. water is too shallow 4. in a shallow, sheltered area eg. cove