Anchors

Question 1

What does the letters in the acronym SERENE stand for

Answer 1

Strong
Equalized
Redundant
Efficient
No
Extension

Question 2

What does the letters in the acronym ERNEST stand for

Answer 2

Equalized
Redundant
No
Extension
Strong
Timely

Question 3

What are the seven main anchors used by CAMRA

Answer 3

• Full Strength
• Wrap 3 pull 2
• Wrap 3 pull 2 (interwoven)
• Multi Point (fixed) (load sharing)
• Multi Point (equalizing)
• 3:1 Back Tie
• Voodoo

Question 4

What are the characteristics of the

Full Strength Tie off anchor

Answer 4

• used for a hasty rappel for medical to access subject
• min of five to seven wraps from bottom up
• considered to be 100% efficient (no load on knot)
• finish with a fig 8 follow through.

Question 5

What are the characteristics of a Wrap 3 Pull 2

Answer 5

• three wraps around anchor
• pull two legs away from anchor
• keep water bend centered
• webbing should be cleanly dressed
• can be fixed or equalizing

Question 6

What are the characteristics of a Wrap 3 Pull 2 interwoven

Answer 6

• constructed of two separate standard W3P2 around the same anchor
• one side of is interwoven
• used as part of a 3:1 backtie for marginal anchor
• attempt to use two different webbing colors for easy safety

Question 7

describe a multi point fixed anchor

Answer 7

• an anchor made from two marginal anchors
• legs are tied together with an overhand knot to share the load in a fixed direction
• incorporates a carabiner as a “marlin spike” in the overhand to allow for easy deconstruction

Question 8

describe a multi point (load equalizing) anchor

Answer 8

• an anchor made from two marginal anchors
• one of the legs incorporate a “magic X twist” to provide for redundancy, and to allow for constant equalizing between the two anchors in all directions
• useful if the fall line is not in a fixed direction - allows for side to side movement

Question 9

describe a 3:1 back tie anchor

Answer 9

• Used to back up a marginal anchor with a bomb proof anchor
• interwoven wrap 3 pull 2 is used around marginal anchor
• ratchet prusik is used as a progress capture on the last leg of 3:1
• tied off with a munter mule (same as radium)
• carabiners should be used instead of pulleys
• “exercise” the rope several time to take out slack

Question 10

describe a VooDoo

Answer 10

its magic

Question 11

What is the minimum amount of bolts needed if building anchors from them

Answer 11

two

Question 12

If artificial pro is used, what is the minimum amount of points to be used

Answer 12

three

Question 13

What is the breaking strength of a Wrap 3 pull 2?

Answer 13

39.6

Question 14

What is considered to be a “bombproof” anchor

Answer 14

An anchor that will hold 10X its intended load
AND
can be used as an anchor for both the mainline AND belay

Question 15

What is considered to be a standard anchor

Answer 15

an anchor that will hold 10X the intended load but

CAN NOT be used as an anchor for both mainline and belay

Question 16

what is the percent of the load exerted on a direction anchor when the Vector angle is 150 deg

Answer 16

50%

Question 17

what is the percent of the load exerted on a direction anchor when the Vector angle is 120 deg

Answer 17

100%

Question 18

what is the percent of the load exerted on a direction anchor when the Vector angle is 90 deg

Answer 18

140%

Question 19

what is the percent of the load exerted on a direction anchor when the Vector angle is 45 deg

Answer 19

185%

Question 20

what is the percent of the load exerted on a direction anchor when the Vector angle is <45 deg

Answer 20

200%