C3.3

Question 1

considered as disturbances on water surface due to the interaction between a generating force and restoring force.

Answer 1

waves

Question 2

• the disturbing force or a pulse of energy being introduced ot the water surface.

Answer 2

Generating force

Question 3

• the force that causes the water to return to its undisturbed surface level.

Answer 3

Restoring force

Question 4

• _____is the restoring force of___ waves while ____ is the restoring force of___ waves.

Answer 4

Surface tension ; small
Earth’s gravity; large

Question 5

• part of the wave that is elevated the highest above.

Answer 5

Crest

Question 6

• part of the wave that is depressed the lowest below the
  surface.

Answer 6

Trough

Question 7

• distance between two successive crest or trough.

Answer 7

Wavelength

Question 8

• the vertical distance from the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough.

Answer 8

Wave Height

Question 9

• is equal to one - half of wave height or the distance from either the crest or trough to the undisturbed water level.

Answer 9

Amplitude

Question 10

• undisturbed water level

Answer 10

Equilibrium Surface

Question 11

• the time required for two successive crests or two successive troughs to pass a point in space.

Answer 11

Period

Question 12

does not represent a flow of water but instead represents a flow of motion or energy from its origin to its eventual dissipation of sea or loss against the land.

Answer 12

Ocean wave

Question 13

The moving water form causes water particles to move in___ rising, moving forward, falling, reversing direction and rising again.

Answer 13

orbits

Question 14

related to wavelength and wave period given the following formula:
C= L/T

Answer 14

wave speed

Question 15

the height of actual waves are affected and controlled by 3 main factors:

Answer 15

wind speed;
wind duration;
fetch

Question 16

how fast the wind is blowing

Answer 16

wind speed

Question 17

how long the wind blows

Answer 17

wind duration

Question 18

the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction

Answer 18

fetch

Question 19

when no single one of the three factors is limiting, spectacular _____ are formed at sea.

Answer 19

wind waves

Question 20

Types of wave: (7)

Answer 20

1.) Capillary waves or ripples
2.) Gravity waves
3.) Episodic waves
4.) shallow-water waves
5.) intermediate waves
6.) deep-water waves
7.) tsunami

Question 21

small waves on surface ocean caused by winds and restored by surface tension.

Answer 21

Capillary waves or ripples

Question 22

sufficiently large waves on ocean surface caused by wind and restored
by Earth’s gravity.

Answer 22

Gravity waves

Question 23

large waves that suddenly appear unrelated to local sea conditions.

Answer 23

Episodic waves

Question 24

an abnormally high wave that occurs because of a combination of intersecting wave trains, changing depths and currents.

Answer 24

Episodic waves

Question 25

waves that occur most frequently near the edge of the continental shelf

Answer 25

episodic waves

Question 26

researchers describe them as having a height of 20 - 30 m or 70 - 100 tf equal to a seven - or eight-story building.

Answer 26

episodic waves

Question 27

a wave formed when water enters a depth of less than one-twentieth the wavelength (D< 1/20; D = ___).

Answer 27

shallow-water waves

Question 28

a wave formed at water depth between 1/2 and 1/20.

Answer 28

intermediate waves

Question 29

wave that occur IN water that is deeper than one —half the wave's length. (D > L/2)

Answer 29

deep-water waves

Question 30

in order to be considered as deep - water wave, the wave must occur in water that is deeper than ___

Answer 30

7.5 m.

Question 31

also called as seismic sea waves - waves formed due to movement of continental crusts directly below the ocean.

Answer 31

tsunamis

Question 32

is the shallow area along the coast in which the waves slow rapidly steepen, break and disappear in the turbulence and spray of expended energy.

Answer 32

surf zone

Question 33

form in the surf zone because the water particle motion at depth is affected by the bottom.

Answer 33

breakers

Question 34

in breakers, the orbital motion is slowed and compressed___

Answer 34

vertically

Question 35

2 common types of breakers -

Answer 35

a) Plungers and b) Spillers

Question 36

-they form on narrow, steep beach slopes - the curling crest outruns the rest of the wave, curves over the air below it, and breaks with a sudden loss of energy and splash.

Answer 36

Plungers

Question 37

- found over wider, flatter beaches where the energy is extracted more gradually as the wave moves over the shallow bottom.

Answer 37

Spillers

Question 38

has less dramatic wav form - consisting of turbulent water and bubbles flowing down the collapsing wave face.

Answer 38

spillers

Question 39

___last longer than plungers because they less energy more gradually.

Answer 39

Spilling breakers

Question 40

-___ give surfers a longer ride but___ give them a more exciting one

Answer 40

spillers; plungers

Question 41

The rotation of the Earth generates the ____ that cause ____ movement of oceans in both hemispheres.

Answer 41

CORIOLIS FORCES; EAST → WEST

Question 42

major surface currents have been named as ____ with no banks but stil maintain an average course.

Answer 42

rivers of the sea

Question 43

surface currents extends to about ___to__ m from the surface much equal to the ___

Answer 43

100 to 150 m; Ekman Spiral.

Question 44

are driven by wind and are also acted upon by the Coriolis effect.

Answer 44

surface currents

Question 45

A wind - driven surface current moves at an angle of ___from the direction of the wind.

Answer 45

45 degrees

Question 46

This angle (45 degrees) is to the RIGHT in the ____ and to the LEFT in the ____

Answer 46

Northern Hemisphere; Southern Hemisphere.