positive feedback
exacerbates the original change, pushing the system further from equilibrium. e.g erosion leads to mass movement which exposes cliff face more to erosion
negative feedback
reduces the effects of the initial change helping maintain dynamic equilibrium. e.g deposition at base of cliff absorbs wave energy reducing erosion
dynamic equilibrium
a state of balance where inputs = outputs in a system that is constantly changing
sources of energy at the coast
waves
wind
rip currents
tides
wave energy is affected by
strength of the wind
duration of the wind
fetch - distance of open water in which wind blows over
constructive waves
strong swash, weak backwash
low surging waves, long wavelength
beach gain, associated with gentle beach
calm weather, short fetch
destructive
weak swash, strong backwash
high plunging waves, short wavelength
beach loss, associated with steep beaches
stormy weather
wave refraction
distortion of wave fronts as they approach the shoreline, causing energy to be concentrated at headlands and dissipated at bays. deep water causes waves to travel faster. shallow water causes drag - this causes a bend in the wave
rip currents
narrow, fast channels of water that flow from the shore back out to sea.
how are wave refraction formed
deep water causes waves to travel faster. shallow water causes drag - this causes a bend in the wave
how are rip currents formed
series of plunging waves causes a temporary build up of water at the shore, water then finds area with least resistance and rushes back out to sea
tides
the periodic rise and fall of the level of the sea in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon
neap tides
lowest tidal range
moon at right angle to sun
gravitational pull acts against each other
spring tides
highest tidal range
sun + moon in line
gravitational pull acts together
sediment cell
stretch of coastline, usually bordered by 2 prominent headlands + movement of sediment is contained
inputs
rivers, cliff erosion, lsd, wind, glaciers
transfers
lsd + onshore/offshore processes e.g rip currents
stores
beaches, sand dunes, offshore deposits
sediment budget
the balance between inputs and outputs in a system
freeze thaw weathering
water enters cracks, freezes and expands, breaking away rock
wetting + drying
rock expands when wet + contracts when dry
salt crystallization
salt water evaporates leaving salt crystals which exert stresses in rock causing them to break up
carbonation
rain is slightly acidic + reacts with carbonate rocks e.h limestone
oxidation
rock reacts with oxygen causing rusting + breakdown effect