Geography > Coasts > Flashcards

Coasts Flashcards

(53 cards)

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1
Q

Coast

A

An area in which the land meets the sea

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2
Q

How are waves formed?

A

By the friction of the wind on the surface of the water

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3
Q

The size of a wave is determined by…

A
  1. the speed of the wind
  2. duration the wind has blown
  3. the distance the wind has blown (fetch)
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4
Q

Swash

A

Movement of sediment and water up a beach

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5
Q

Backwash

A

Movement of sediment and water back down a beach due to gravity

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6
Q

Constructive waves

A

Waves that have stronger swash than backwash, causing it to pile more sediment than it takes off, ‘constructing’ gentle beaches. These waves break less freuqently (6-9 times a min)

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7
Q

Destructive waves

A

Waves that have stronger backwash then swash, causing it to take off more sediment than it piles on, ‘destroying’ gentle beaches and froming steeper ones. These waves break more frequently (11-15 times a min)

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8
Q

Hydraulic action

A

The force of the waves push into the cracks and gaps of the rock, trapping air and breaking pieces off

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9
Q

Abrasion

A

The rocks and pebbles that the waves are carrying bash into the cliff face, chipping pieces off

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10
Q

Attrition

A

The rocks and pebbles that the waves are carrying bash into eachother, chipping pieces off and creating smooth, smaller and rounder rocks

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11
Q

Solution/corrosion

A

Some rocks like chalk and limestone dissovle in the water

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12
Q

Headland

A

A section of land jutting out into sea

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13
Q

Bay

A

A concave section of the coastline next to a headland

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14
Q

List the few key points to a formation of headlands and bays

A
  1. Different rocks erode at different speeds (differential erosion)
  2. When the soft rock erodes much faster than the hard rock, it will retreat inland quicker, forming a section of land further out into sea, a headland
  3. The inland area is now a protected and sheltered bay
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15
Q

How are caves, arches, stacks and stumps formed?

A
  1. A headland is exposed to all kinds of erosion as it is further out into sea than a bay
  2. A large crack is formed by hydraulic action
  3. The crack becomes a cave due to hydraulic action and abrasion, and as erosion continues the cave will widen and grow in size
  4. The cave breaks across the headland, forming a natural arch
  5. The arch continues to be eroded and the top will soon fall through and collapse, forming a stack
  6. Erosion attacks the stack from the bottom, and when the top doesn’t have enough support, the stack collapses and forms a stump
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16
Q

Wave cut platforms

A

A wide, gently sloping surface found at a cliffs base and extends into sea

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17
Q

Wave cut notch

A

When the waves undercut a cliff and creates a dent in the rock, marking the point that the waves are the strongest

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18
Q

How is a wave cut platform formed?

A
  1. At high tide, the waves undercut the cliff and form a wave cut notch
  2. Over time the cliff is eroded until the top of the cliff (or the overhang) cannot support itself anymore and collapses
  3. This repeats as the cliff retreats and a wave cut platform is formed, until it is covered at high tide and the waves cannot reach or erode it anymore
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19
Q

What can happen once a wave cut platform is covered at high tide?

A

The wave cut platform can collect sand and shingle, forming beaches and/or habitats for living organisms like crabs

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20
Q

Weathering

A

When rocks on Earth’s rigid outer core called the lithosphere, is exposed to the Earth’s other spheres. Air, water, changing temperatures, plants and animals are all causing rocks to break down and rock away.

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21
Q

Freeze-thaw weathering

A

Water gets into the cracks of rocks, and as it cools down it also expands, causing the cracks to widen. As this repeats, the rock weakens and pieces are broken off.

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22
Q

Chemical weathering

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A

Rainwater which is slightly acidic, attacks the rock and it rots and crumbles away.

23
Q

Biological weathering

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A

Plants and animals can break down and rot rocks away. Tree roots getting into rock cracks can cause them to split, and worms can weaken rocks as well.

24
Q

Coastal transportation

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A

How sand, pebbles and shingle are moved on a coastline

25
Traction
Large boulders and rocks are rolled along the coast/seabed
26
Saltation
Smaller pebbles are rocks are bounced along the bed
27
Suspension
Fine, light material called silt is carried along by the waves/sea
28
Solution
Dissovled materials are carried away
29
Longshore drift
Movement/transportation of sediment along a coastline by the action of waves
30
Explain how longshore drift moves sediment
1. The waves usually approach a beach at an angle according to the **prevailing wind** (the overall direction of the wind) 2. Swash from the waves push sediment up a beach in the angle of the prevailing wind 3. Backwash returns the material straight down 90 degrees from the beach due to gravity 4. The action of swash and backwash is repeated to create a **zig-zag** pattern up and down a beach
31
Where can sand and shingle from a beach move to?
Along the beach, to another beach, out to sea and more
32
Deposition
The dropping or 'dumping' of sediment when the water has low energy and the environment is low wind. Deposition can create landforms and features by piling up the sediment
33
Spit
An accumulation of sand with one end attachted to the land and he other eaching out across and estuary or into the sea
34
How is a spit formed?
When large amounts of sediment are transported by longshore drift, and where the coast changes direction to leave a shallow area of water for deposition to occur
35
Bar
A ridge of sand or shingle that reaches far enough to get to land again and cross the entrance to a bay
36
Tombolo
A beach that connects the mainland to an offshore island
37
How is a bar formed?
Similar to a spit, but continues to grow until it reaches land again
38
How is a tombolo formed?
Similar to a spit, but continues to grow seaward until it joins an island
39
How do you use 4- figure grid references?
1. Along the corridor and up the stairs like coordinates 2. The point that the grid refernce points to is the lower left point of a square
40
How do you use 6 figure grid references?
1. Find the 4 figure grid reference 2. Imagine there are 10 smaller dividers within the larger square and give the number of the smaller dividers that is closest to the point you want to match with
41
Give 4 reasons why coasts may need protecting
1. Risk of being eroded 2. Sea levels rising and the risk of being flooded 3. Longshore drift moving sediment only to one end of the beach 4. Vulnerable to weathering
42
Hard management
The use of man-made or durable natural materials to manage and 'hold the line' on a coastline and reduce/change natural processes. This is normally quite expensive and less actractive in appearance.
43
Soft management
Working with natural proccesses and natural materials to protect coastlines. This is normally cheaper and more attractive in appearance but less durable over time
44
Sea wall
A concrete wall placed at the base of cliffs or in front of a sediment that run parallel to the coastline
45
Beach regrading/reprofiling
When diggers change the shape of beaches and build natural ridges near the back of the beach, or redistribute sediment moved by Longshore Drift
46
Gabions
Stone filled cages that are placed at the base of cliffs slopes at the back of a beach, and are often stacked up one of top of another
47
Beach nourishment
When sediment is added onto a beach, usually from another beach or from the seabed
48
Rock armour
Large boulders placed at the base of a sea wall or at the base of a cliff
49
Groynes
Wooden or rock structure running at right angles to the coastline to prevent Longshore Drift
50
Dune management/regeneration
Use of fences and planting to stabilise sand beaches and dunes
51
What can a rock armour also be called?
Rip-rap
52
Geology
Study of the Earth’s structure, the history of how Earth was formed and the changes that have happened to the planet in the past
53
Why is geology important?
It can help locate important minerals and samples of different rock types to help protect, manage and learn more about coastlines
Geography
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