Wave formation
Begins with wind blowing over the ocean surface.
Top layers of wind move
Ahead of the lower layers because of friction between the layers and the wave surface.
Top layers
“Topple over” to create circular eddies, thus forcing the water surface into wave-like shapes.
Not actual
Water moves.
Depth if wave =
1/2 wave length
Swash
Forward
Backwash
Backwards