Deep Currents
vertical ocean currents caused by density differences, dependent on temperature
Antarctic Bottom Water
coldest, densest water in the ocean, found near Antarctica
Arctic Deep Water
second coldest, flows above Antarctic Bottom Water
Ocean Waves
propagating disturbances, often driven by wind
Transverse Wave
wave where the disturbance direction is perpendicular to the propagation direction
Longitudinal Wave
wave where the disturbance direction is parallel to the propagation direction
Surface Wave
wave with circular motion, typical on water surfaces
Wavelength
distance between two crests or troughs of a wave
Frequency
number of wave cycles per second, measured in hertz (Hz)
Amplitude
energy of a wave; distance from the center to the crest or trough
Constructive Interference
when two waves meet and combine, increasing amplitude
Destructive Interference
when two waves meet and cancel each other, reducing amplitude
Mixed Interference
combination of constructive and destructive interference between waves
Dispersive Waves
waves where energy travels at different speeds, causing wave packets to spread
Non-Dispersive Waves
waves where energy and wave crests travel at the same speed, maintaining shape
Diffraction
bending of waves around obstacles
Wind Fetch
distance over which wind blows to generate waves
Whitecaps
waves with breaking crests that form foam due to wind
Monster Waves (Rogue Waves)
sudden, large waves caused by constructive interference of multiple wave systems
Shoaling
process of wave transformation as they move from deep to shallow water
Spilling Breakers
gradual, small waves common on the east coast of the U.S.
Plunging Breakers
moderate breaking waves with a steeper slope
Surging Surf
powerful surf resulting from abrupt shoaling, common on the west coast
Prevailing Westerlies
dominant winds in North America that blow from west to east