How are waves created?
By the transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the surface of the sea
what is the crest?
top of a wave
what is the wave height?
distance from trough to crest
What is the trough
bottom of a wave
What is the wavelength?
distance between two successive crests
What is the wave amplitude?
1/2 the wave height
How does wind velocity affect wave energy?
A faster wind has more energy to transfer down to the water through frictional drag
How does the period of time wind has blown for affect wave energy
The longer the wind blows over the same water, the more energy it transfers
How does the length of the fetch affect wave energy
A longer fetch lets waves build up more energy
Why do waves break?
A wave breaks when it gets steep enough that the top tips over
Why do waves break at the coast
wave shoaling. This occurs when the water becomes shallow at the edge of the coastline.
what is a plunge line?
point at which wave breaks
what is swash?
Swash is foaming water rushing up the beach, depositing material
what is backwash?
Backwash is water flowing back to the sea due to gravity, which can scour and erode the beach
how are swell waves formed
distant storms and travel long distances
how are sea waves generated
local winds and travel short distances
do destructive waves have more swash or backwash
more backwash
do constructive waves have more swash or backwash
more swash
igneous rock forming process
crystallization
example of igneous rock
granite
sedimentary rock forming process
deposition
metamorphic rock forming process
recrystallization
example of sedimentary rock
bedded sandstone
metamorphic rock example
gneiss