Piemontese Sparkling Wine - by the numbers
~10% of total Italian production. #2 for sparkling wine - a distance behind Veneto/Prosecco
2020.. Of 110 million bottles produced:
54 million were Asti Spumante
38 million were Moscato d’Asti
Varietal Moscato were 3 million
2.7 million were Brachetto d’Acqui
700k were Alta Langa DOC
Origins of tank method wine
Sacchi holandesi
Old school filtering method - Dutch Sacks, 1800s
- double layer of material. Fermenting wine passes through sacks every 7-10 days, removing nitrogen needed to feed yeast.
- after each filter, vat rests until it starts to re-ferment.. process repeats 8 to 10x then into bottle
- bottled wine was 4 or 5º - weak enough that bottle pressure stopped ferment further (ideally)
Alta Langa DOCG
- assemblage
- aging
- sweetness
- min % for vintage
ASSEMBLAGE: Min 90% Pinot Nero and/or Chardonnay
Max 10% “others”
AGING: 30 months on lees for normale
36 months for Riserva (likely to be revised to 60m in future)
*must be vintage dated (15% allowance for “improvement)
STYLES: non-dosaggio to extra-sec (0 - 17gl RS). Most are around 5gl in practice.
Name 5 Alta Langa producers
Carlo Gancia
Piemontese - Italian traditional method pioneer.
- Moved to Champagne in 1848, worked at Piper-Hiedsieck for 2 years.
- Came back, started Fratelli Gancia in 1850 - 1st traditional method sparkling was made with Moscato.
- His 1st “Italien Champagne” was produced in 1865 (in part a collab with cousin Vistarino)
- Moved his cellars to Canelli in 1866.
[meanwhile, Savoy king’s winemkaer Paolo Staglieno was experimenting with sparkling and Counte Vistarino, Gancia’s cousin, planted the 1st successful Pinot Nero in Oltrepo Pavese in 1850]
ALTA LANGA DOCG
- min elevation
- soils
- lay of the land
Covers 149 villages in the hills of Asti, Alessandria, and Cuneo on the right bank of the Tanaro River in the Southern Piemonte.
ELEVATION: min 250M
SOILS: limestone and clay marls
ASTI DOCG
- lay of the land
- subzones / elevated DOCG
~8100 of 9700ha is claimed for DOCG. Asti, Alessandria and part of Cuneo.
SUBS:
1. Strevi
2. Canelli (DOCG since ‘23)
3. Santa Vittoria d’Alba
MOSCATO VINEYARDS ARE STEEP: 90% is grown at 200 - 500M. 1/2 of vyd area has 30-50% gradient. Gradients of 50%+ can be called sori.
Asti method
2 phases - making and storing juice, then winemaking
~4 weeks
Asti’s Big 4
[60% of total production, approx. USA is top export and catalyst for production doubling for Moscato d’Asti. Asti is favored in Europe. Production is 70% Asti/30% Moscato]
EU Definition of Sparkling Wine / Vino Spumante
EU definition of Semi-Sparkling / Vino Frizzante
What are the minimum ABV’s for all styles of Asti DOCG? Assemblage?
Asti and Asti Metodo Classico: min. 6% acquired; 11 and 11.5% potential respectively
Moscato d’Asti: 11% potential; 4.5 to 6.5% acquired
Vendimmia Tardiva: 14% potential, 11% acquired
[no maximum for any; all styles can be made in any sweetness level except VT which is fully sweet and made via appassimento]
Min 97% Moscato Bianco for all
Moscato d’Asti DOCG
- max pressure
- abv / potential abv
- assemblage
1st single vineyard Moscato d’Asti?
PRESSURE: max 2.5 bars
ABV: 4.5 to 6.5%
POTENTIAL: min. 11%
min. 97% Moscato Bianco
Spinetta’s Bricco Quaglia - 1977
Piedmont climate
- type
- biggest threats
- climate change challenges
Strongly Continental. Humid.
Biggest Threat: Hail and frost
Only the area around Gavi is open to winds from the Ligurian Sea - 30km away
Climate Change Challenges:
- warm winters, warm springs = earlier buds hit by late frosts. Planting on slopes can help mitigate, though not enough in the worst frost years.. 2017 and esp. 2021
- warm winters = more pests
- “water bomb” rains - vegetation between rows helps reduce erosion on slopes.
Frost Vintages in the Langhe
2017 * drought + hail, frost
2021 * very bad frost year. Hail and wet weather.
2023
What is the common training method used in the Piemonte? Why?
Guyot
- excellent sunlight interception/cool climate friendly
- low humidity to reduce fungal disease
- easy access between rows
VSP/”renewal” training system
What is the biggest fungal/disease pressure in the Piemonte?
FLAVESCENZA DORATA
Bacterial Disease. Symptoms appear in August - leaves turn yellow or red. Severe cases kill vine in 1-3 years. A gift from N. America - arrived in EU in 1950’s.
Treatment: no cure. Grubbing up vines, treatment for vector insect, only graft with certified nursery material
(spread by leafhoppers; one of the most severe grapevine yellow diseases)
Piedmont Plantings
- most planted
- red vs. white
43,794ha (2025)
Barbera
[red plantings decreased 11% since 2008; white grapes up 25%. Overall, 60% red, 40% white. 93% of production is dedicated to DOC/G]
What is the difference between a phenotype and a biotype?
Phenotype: versions of a variety that show visible differences from each other
Biotype: the product of small-scale mutations that occur in a vine due to the influence of the environment in which it grows
Nebbiolo phenotypes
Lampia: most widely planted / used
Michet: a sub-variety of Lampia; a diseased version of lampia?
Rosé: was found to be a distinct variety? Less common and not allowed in some places
Name 3 Piemontese DOC/G that have defined MGA’s.
Barolo
Barbaresco
Roero
Dogliani
Diano d’Alba
Gavi
What is an MGA?
- DOCG with MGA (4)
MENZIONE GEOGRAFICA AGGIUNTIVA: a defined area that communicates where the grapes are grown. Municipality, subzone or vineyard. No quality guarantee or status.
DOCG:
Barolo
Roero
Barbaresco
Gavi
“The Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (aka MGA - Additional Geographical Mentions), in the case of Barolo, are 181 and follow the French concept of Crus, indicating production areas or, more properly, the French definition of Climat, that is, specific portions of vineyards with well-marked boundaries and which is historically known for its high wine-growing vocation.”
Producers in Barolo/Barbaresco declassifying their grapes would use what Nebbiolo-focused DOC? What Barbera area overlaps?
Langhe DOC Nebbiolo
(Nebbiolo d’Alba’s boundaries do not overlap)
Barbera d’Alba DOC