AGAVE
- anatomy and key terms
- preferred term for agave in Oaxaca
- life cycle
- name of harvester / harvesting tool
MAGUEY is the preferred term for agave in Oaxaca.
The PIÑA is the heart of the agave - its INULIN reserve, the sugar that is key to fermentation. The leaves are called the PENCAS.
The QUIOTE is the long stalk that grows out of the agave plant - signaling maturity. It flowers to reproduce sexually. This stalk is cut when it blooms to divert sugars back into the Piña. The quiote-less maguey is called the CAPON. This cut is made 6 - 12m pre-harvest to maximize sugars.
Agave is harvested by a JIMADOR using a COA DE JIMA.
Agave reproduces via hijuelos which grow at base of plant. Around 1 yr, the “pups” are transplated. Hijuelos produced at ~6 yrs are weaker / don’t survive.
COOKING AGAVE
- 3 main methods
- what’s next
PIT OVENS: artisanal method. Days long slow roast.
BRICK OVENS: started to replace
AUTOCLAVE: cheapest, fastest. Basically a large pressure cooker.
The inulin in the agave’s piña needs to be cooked to convert to fermentable sugar.
next… milling (to release fermentable sugar)
MILLING AGAVE
- 4 methods
TEQUILA DO - 5 states
Jalisco
Nayarit
Tamaulipas
Guanajuato
Michoacan
[Tamaulipas, Guanajuato, Michoacan can also make Mezcal]
JALISCO
- subregions
- which is preferred
HIGHLANDS/LOS ALTOS: cooler, higher, red volcanic soils. Citrusy, floral styles
- 1800 - 2300M. Most acidic soils
- Patrón, Siete Leguas, La Alteña, El Pandillo, and Cazadores
LOWLANDS: warmer, black volcanic. Spicier, earthy, peppery styles
- 1000 - 1550M. Less acidic soils
- Cuervo, Sauza, and Herradura
Agave matures at ~5yrs in Lowlands, 6yrs in Highlands - but Highlands has 25% more sugar
TEQUILA DO - ADDITIVES
- the 4 allowed
- what categories can add them
Abocantes (mellowing agent / additives) cannot exceed 1% of weight without disclosing them on the label.
NOT for blanco
YES for Repo, Anejo, Extra, and Gold
TEQUILA - INGREDIENTS
- what plant / min %
Min. 51% of Tequila’s sugar must come from
Agave Tequilana Azul (Blue Weber)
[mandated for use since 1949. Relatively high sugar content, disease resistant, mature relatively fast… 5 - 7 years. The “Weber” part is somewhat un-PC - named for a French botanist / physician during France’s colonial mexican invasion. He documented the plant, then his name became its shorthand that we can’t get rid of]
Mexican states for tequila AND Mezcal (3)
Tamaulipas
Michoacan
Guanajuato
Name 3 states for Mezcal production (9)
Tamaulipas
Michoacan
Guanajuato
Durango
Zacatecas
San Luis Potosi
Guerrero
Oaxaca
Puebla
4 digit code on Tequila bottle - what does it tell you?
NOM: Norma Oficial Mexicana
* Identifies the distillery
* it is a certification that the product is authentic. All 100% agave Tequila must carry one.
of distillations for Tequila
2 or 3x
TEQUILA - AGING
- aging / categories
- max barrel size
BLANCO: max 2 months - no additives
REPOSADO: 2 - 12 months; any size oak
ANEJO: 1 - 3 years in max. 600L oak
EXTRA ANEJO: 3+ years in max 600L oak
[Gold is usually a mixto tequila colored with caramel and softened with sugar/glycerin to mimic aging. Joven is often blend of aged / unaged and colored as well]
Bacanora
Sonora
* Agave Pacifica
* similar to Mezcal in production
Sotol
- plant name
- 3 regions of production
- alt name
Dasylirion Wheeleri
(desert spoon)
* Chihuahua, Coaihuila, Durango
If made elsewhere, known as Cucharilla
Tequila ABV
USA = min. 40%
Tequila DO = 35% - 55%
[Mezcal is 36% - 55%]
Raicilla
- where from
- what is it
“little root”
Mezcal from Jalisco (and Banderas Bay in Nayarit). Strong link to Puerto Vallarta.
* 100% agave.
Repasada, Anejada categories
Charanda
100% sugarcane juice, piloncillo or molasses
*this isn’t agave, obviously
Michoacan - DO since 2003
* Charanda = “red colored soil”
* sugar cane is crushed, wild yeast fermented, distilled 2x in copper pot still
ABV for Mezcal DO
36 - 55%
MEZCAL - CATEGORIES
- what are the 6 / aging requirements
- any max barrel sizes?
- name for the worm
BLANCO / JOVEN: unaged
REPOSADO: 2-12m
ANEJO: 2 yrs in max 1000L oak
MADURADO EN VIDRIO: min. 12m in glass/inert container
ABOCADO CON: mixed with herbs, fruit, etc
DESTILLADO CON: covers pechuga styles
El Gusado = agave worm
4 things required on a Mezcal label
Mezcal categories
- what are they
- what differentiates them
MEZCAL (basic)
- basically any existing method of doing everything
MEZCAL ARTESENAL - 92% of production
- Cooking: pit oven or cement
- Milling: tahona OR hand bats
- Fermentation: anything but stainless. Can include bagazo.
- Distillation: various methods; can incl. bagazo
MEZCAL ANCESTRAL
- Cooking: pit oven
- Milling: tahona OR hand bats
- Fermentation: ferments with bagazo in cement, clay, stone, earthenware, or animal skin
- Distillation: direct fire on clay vessel; must incl. bagazo
Bagazo
- what is it
- how is it used
Agave fiber left over after milling, fermentation, and distillation. It may be used to insulate the hot rocks of the pit oven, and to seal joints on clay-pot stills.
And.. for fermentation:
Tahona-milled agave is (most often) fermented with the bagazo - forms a cap on top of fermentation, creating an anaerobic environment/less evaporation.
Tahona-milled agave gives bagazo with a lot of fermentable sugar. Whereas… roller mills are more efficient extracting sugar… thus wouldn’t ferment with bagazo.
.. and for distillation. Some use bagazo for ordinario.
Distillation methods for basic Mezcal category
Mezcal Artesenal
- milling, cooking, fermentation, distillation methods
Can be made with or without the bagazo